Loft conversion eaves storage is too drafty

[SomebodE]

Hi,

We had a loft conversion carried out earlier in the year and the loft room is always stone cold due to the draft coming through the eaves storage area hatch doors. When the doors are open, you can feel a strong wind blowing in the storage area.

The storage area has chipboard floor boards and the rafters are covered with solid insulation. The hatch doors are made of MDF and have nothing on the back of them. The stud walls either side of the hatch doors have solid insulation.

We parted on bad terms with the builder as they failed to complete all the contracted work. Whilst we've completed the outstanding work with the final installment held back, I can't help but think that the reason that we have a massive draft in the eaves storage area is poor workmanship.

Should the storage area have so much wind running through it?

If so, what are the best ways to stop that cold air coming into the loft room?
Should I bond solid insultation to the back of the storage hatch doors?

Any advice appreciated.

 

[tony1851]

The time to worry would be if the storage area had no draught at all.
Just stick some solid insulation on the door, and draught-proof it.

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Your hatch doors are effectively working as external doors so should be treated as such. The ideal way this problem is overcome is by taking the pitched roof insulation down to the eaves rather than insulating the dwarf walls, albeit slightly more costly (heating bills) to do so. Then the storage spaces are effectively inside.

 

[SomebodE]

Your hatch doors are effectively working as external doors so should be treated as such. The ideal way this problem is overcome is by taking the pitched roof insulation down to the eaves rather than insulating the dwarf walls, albeit slightly more costly (heating bills) to do so. Then the storage spaces are effectively inside.

Thanks for the reassurance Tony.

The pitched roof has celotex like solid insultation between the beams (rafters?) all the way down to the chipboard floor within the eaves storage area. The dwarf walls also have that insultation on the rear of the plasterboard.

Freddy, can you clarify what you're suggesting? Apologies in advance, I'm not very knowledgeable on the subject of loft conversions.

 

[SomebodE]

The time to worry would be if the storage area had no draught at all.
Just stick some solid insulation on the door, and draught-proof it.

Silly question but what do you think is the best way to stick the insultation to the back of the MDF doors? Using "No More Nails" or something else?

 

[tony1851]

Yes, but take the door off, lay it flat and put some weight on the panel while the adhesive cures.
You will probably get considerable improvement by draught-proofing the rebates.

 

[SomebodE]

Yes, but take the door off, lay it flat and put some weight on the panel while the adhesive cures.
You will probably get considerable improvement by draught-proofing the rebates.

Ah, that makes sense.

I had to look up the term rebate in relation to doors to work out what you were saying. In this case, there is definately a gap where the doors meet and there is only a small strip of wood on the rear of one of the MDF doors to act as a stop for the other door.

What would you suggest putting on it? A P-profile seal?

 

[SomebodE]

Any suggestions on what profile draft seal to use?

I've never done this before but willing to give it a go

 

[tony1851]

The stick-on foam strip might be easiest and cheapest - it depends on how wide the gaps are.

 

[SomebodE]

Gap between the doors is 5mm width
Gap around the the doors is 2mm at the smallest (bottoms) and 5mm at the biggest (tops) - the sides are in between.

I've got two hatch doors per 80cm opening and there are two openings.

You can see why it's getting cold up here

 

[tony1851]

There might not be any rebate to stick draught-proofing strip to.
In that case, why not just tape up the joints/gaps with masking tape - at least just for the winter, and then think of something more permanent during the summer.

 

[SomebodE]

I've done exactly that - taped up the gaps for now.

Occasionally have to re-tape when the force of the wind pushes the doors open.

Still cold but better than before by a long way.

I've left an oil filled electric heater set to 15 degrees celcius in the loft room to ensure that it doesn't get too cold there.

 

[indus]

I've done exactly that - taped up the gaps for now.

Occasionally have to re-tape when the force of the wind pushes the doors open.

Still cold but better than before by a long way.

I've left an oil filled electric heater set to 15 degrees celcius in the loft room to ensure that it doesn't get too cold there.

Do you not have central heating up there?

 

[SomebodE]

We do have central heating in the loft.
The bedroom without the hatch doors easily heats up to and maintains 20 degrees.
The study has the hatch doors and struggles to get to 16 degrees when the central heating is on and down to a couple of degrees above the outside temp when its not, which is why the oil heater is there and set to 15 degrees.

 

[indus]

We do have central heating in the loft.
The bedroom without the hatch doors easily heats up to and maintains 20 degrees.
The study has the hatch doors and struggles to get to 16 degrees when the central heating is on and down to a couple of degrees above the outside temp when its not, which is why the oil heater is there and set to 15 degrees.

Oh I see.

That does sound very odd. I have eaves storage with hatches in both of my loft rooms and temp control is never a problem

Anyway, I hope you get it sorted.