Log Cabbin Supply

[wcavanagh]

Hi People,

I am thinking about putting a Cabin down my garden to use as an home office. The cabin is 6m x 6m, I will need heating and power down there.

We are talking 20 - 30 meters from the house. I have two consumer units at the moment. one for the house ring mains, and one for the lights, heating, and cooker, both are RCD protected, etc.

I guess I would need armoured cable? Would I need to run a ring main down, or would I be able to run a single cable to a CU installed in the cabin?

I would need to power 2x Computers, Lights, and Heating for the cabin. I am thinking 6 double sockets, as I have a lot of computer equipment.

Just looking for some guidance before I start spending my pounds. I will get a few quotes in, but would like to get it straight in my head how it should be done.

Cheers.
Will

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

This type of work will need to comply to part p of building regulations.
It is notifable work so they Building Controls need notifying.
That can either be an application made by you if you chose to DIY it!
or this could be done by an electrician, if the electrician is registered with a Domestic Installation scheme provider they will take care of the application and the required certificates and schdules of Inspection and testing.

Are building controls already involved in the build?

 

[wcavanagh]

Hi,

Thank you. I am just looking at my options at the moment, I have not bought the cabin yet. I have been advised that if I buy one 30 square meters or smaller, and make sure it is at least 5m from my house, and 1m from the boundary in the garden, I do not need Regs, or planning.

It is all very confusing, and I am waiting a straight answer from my local authority.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

I think it's two meters from boundary not one, but that's another issue.

But if Building controls are not involved you will need them for the electrical installation work.
They charge a fee fee starting at about £130 if you are making the application.

The size of the SWA will depend on the demand of the power needed in the log cabin.

What type of heater and the rating?

 

[sparkyspike]

Run a single circuit to the cabin (in armoured cable) into a small consumer unit. From there you can take your lighting and power circuits.

Work out the load you need (roughly) and let us know what it is. The size of the cable is selected according to the size of the protective breaker, which in turn is selected according to your design current. An electrician will help you with this and he will also do all your notification and certification for you so it won't incur the LABC fees (but he must be an approved electrician such as a Domestic or Approved Installer).

 

[wcavanagh]

I will check the boundary thing thank you, not a problem as I have a very large garden not overlooked at all, so will sort that no issues.

The heater I was thinking was a 2.5Kw wall mount fan heater, found a nice one, that looks good.

Lighting I would be using strip lights, 2 PC's taking about 500W Each.

A few routers and bits, telephone and normal office stuff you would expect.

Also will be testing and repairing PCs and Sky stuff, so an LCD TV and Sky HD box too.

I have been offered 50m of 6mm SWA 3 core for £40 from a mate that installs petrol pumps. Will this be worth getting?

 

[sparkyspike]

Yes that would be ok. 6mm cable would be fine for a 32A supply which is probably all you will need. If you have a 32A submain installed in your house and then run the cable to a small consumer unit, you could have (for example) a 6A breaker for lights, a 10A or 16A breaker for the heater (depending on the size) and a 20A breaker for your sockets.

The RCD protection can be in the new consumer unit.

The electrician will give you the options for the type of sub main (eg a switchfuse unit) the type of RCD protection (eg RCBOs) and any exported-earthing requirements (probably not an issue in this case, unless you are having water/plumbing installed; if you are, then it may be better to use 3-core 10mm SWA as it could then incorporate your main bonding cable).

Your electrician will also be able to tell you if your existing installation is suitable for the increased load.

Get your quotes in asap - you will then have a clearer picture as to what you can do.

 

[wcavanagh]

Thanks for the advice. Now I have an idea of what is needed.

I will get some sparks in and see what they come up with.

Cheers all

I will post back soon, with the quotes, as I have no idea what a reasonable price is.

Will

 

[Steve]

"a lot of computer equipment"

Then double your expected number of sockets. There is no limit on any given circuit. Fit 10-12 for two PCs and all perips.

I have one PC using 9 sockets, for instance.

 

[sparkyspike]

And don't forget a UPS for when the power goes off!

 

[RF Lighting]

If you are running lots of IT equipment, then high integrity earthing needs to be considered too...

 

[wcavanagh]

I was looking ate hardwired UPS, for the computer side.

 

[Steve]

I was looking ate hardwired UPS, for the computer side.

Get a normal UPS and hardwire it. Its cheaper. Most retail places do this. FCU on supply and FCU on load, and an IEC lead off each (appropriate genders) to the UPS.

 

[wcavanagh]

I was looking ate hardwired UPS, for the computer side.

Get a normal UPS and hardwire it. Its cheaper. Most retail places do this. FCU on supply and FCU on load, and an IEC lead off each (appropriate genders) to the UPS.

That is a good plan Thanks

 

[ban-all-sheds]

FCU on load

Unless the UPS outputs are fused, which they often are, in which case you don't need the load FCU.

And for everyone looking for a UPS - I was watching this one and forgot to bid - I don't see why I should be the only one gnashing my teeth...

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120463003555