Loud noise, no CH anymore, DM5601 or MK1453 or EP200 faulty?

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Hi there,

I have a gravity fed system, the boiler is a Baxi Bermuda Back Boiler 552 an the cylinder is a coil type double feed indirect (Dublotank 100).

Today my CH started normally and after an hour I heard a loud noise. At first I did not really pay any attention, but then I noticed that the lights on my programmer (Salus EP200) were off, i.e. CH not activated. No matter what setting I use on the programmer (i.e. ON, OFF or Auto), the LEDs for Hot Water & Radiators do not lit up. The odd thing is that I am no longer able to even change the time & daily programs, even after resetting the device (and even unplugging it).

After checking the closet (i.e. where the noise originated from), I noticed that a bit a water was dripping down at the back of the Sunvic DM5601 Actuator. I removed the actuator to access the Sunvic MK1453 valve, I noticed that I can easily turn the valve 360 degrees, is this normal? Or is this valve spring loaded ? (which could explain the loud noise if the spring broke)

Sunvic MK1453 valve:

PS: I tried to remove the 4 screws at the front of the valve, I thought the piece of metal at the front was only used to support the Sunvic DM5601 Actuator, but then lots of water started dripping down so I put back everything in place. I guess I was not meant to do that.

What would likely be the cause of the issue? I am quite worried as I now have no CH nor HW (and this week is going to be quite cold), and the parts are not cheap apart from the programer. Just trying to find out the easiest way to troubleshoot the issue to determine which part needs replaced.

Any help would greatly be appreciated.

Thanks a lot,
Ant
 
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Hi Ant
It could be that water from that leak has got into the valve actuator and shorted it out. The valve will have to be replaced.
 
Thanks Mark, would you know if there is a substitute for the Sunvic DM5601 Actuator? The part itself is quite expensive... It might be more cost effective to replace both the MK1453 and DM5601 at once using may be the SDMV 2304? Just concerned about the wiring though.
 
The SDMV2304 is a mid position valve, from your photo, it looks like you have a two port valve.
It's many years since I last changed one of these, and I could be wrong, but I doubt if a direct replacement is still available. Spring return valves seem to be universal these days.
I can only suggest a quick Google for a replacement.
To change to a spring return, there will be a need to rewire, as the old valve was motored both to open, and to close. This meant a close connection from programer, and room stat. Programer will be OK, but if the room stat is also a Sunvic, it is best to replace with, if I remember, is a TLX2259, again wired in a diferent way to include a nuetral connection.
 
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The SDMV2304 is a mid position valve, from your photo, it looks like you have a two port valve.
It's many years since I last changed one of these, and I could be wrong, but I doubt if a direct replacement is still available. Spring return valves seem to be universal these days.
I can only suggest a quick Google for a replacement.
To change to a spring return, there will be a need to rewire, as the old valve was motored both to open, and to close. This meant a close connection from programer, and room stat. Programer will be OK, but if the room stat is also a Sunvic, it is best to replace with, if I remember, is a TLX2259, again wired in a diferent way to include a nuetral connection.



Not the best of pics and on first look I thought it was a 2 port but its a 3 port the vertical pipe behind is the feed pipe
 
OK , my mistake, should have noticed the D shaped spindle - thanks stardanny.

Same applies though, it's got to be replaced, and the wiring is not the same. It won't matter which make of valve you go for then, there're all much the same. I'm afraid you'll also find you need a few slight alterations to the 22mm, even if it's just replacing the nuts and olives.
 
Hi guys,

Sorry for the crappy photo, the cylinder and valve are located in a tiny closet, hence not really convenient to take pictures. Indeed it is definitely a 3 port valve, MK1453 is actually written on the valve.

I called Sunvic and was told I could replace both the DM5601 Actuator & MK1453 valve with kit SDMV2304. However it would imply changing the junction box. To be honest I am not comfortable dealing with any of the wiring as this is a very old installation and I am not sure which wires go where. Furthermore the junction box currently in use does not look like any of the ones I have seen (for example it contains a relay), therefore I opted to purchase straight replacement parts (i.e. DM5601 & MK1453) to avoid tampering with the junction box.

Below is a photo of the junction box, a bit too scary for me:


I just hope that replacing the MK1453 valve (I had no choice as it was leaking) and the DM5601 Actuator will do the trick. There might be a chance that the Salus EP200 programmer has been damaged since the fuse in the junction box was 13A instead of 5A! I should have checked this myself some time ago but I would not have expected someone to install the wrong fuse.

As a last resort I will replace the programmer (not a big issue as not that expensive). However if replacing all of the above do not help, then I am really stuck. I would not know how to replace the junction box since it is no longer be manufacturer and would need upgraded. If it comes to this, I just hope that my usual trusted plumber will be available.
 
Latest status:

I have now received both the DM5601 actuator & MK1453 valve.

I drained the system to replace the MK1453 valve but was not able to do so, I have only managed to remove one of the nut after using some MD40, the 2 other nuts are still stuck so I think I will need to wait a bit longer for the MD40 to take effect.

In the mean time I switched the electricity off, replaced the DM5601 actuator and replaced the fuse with a 5A use. After turning the electricity back on, the Salus EP200 is still not functioning (after removing the jumper to disable the internal battery, the EP200 screen is blank). After checking the voltage between the Live and Neutral at the back of the programmer, I noticed this was at 0V. The voltage between the Live and Neutral at the thermostat is also 0V.

Voltage between pin 6 and 8 of the junction box returns 240V, the wiring diagram is available in photo below:


I am now quite concerned, I ordered a new programmer (which I can send back within 30 days) but I am pretty sure it is not going to make any difference for the above reasons.

It seems that for some reasons the mains arrive at the junction box, but then do not make its way to the other components. This junction box is no longer manufactured, also there is no guaranty this is the fault, so I cannot replace it.

Looking at the diagram of the junction box (above), could anyone help with the measurements I should take to pinpoint where the fault could lie?
 
I have found an even clearer wiring diagram online, still available on the Sunvic web site (http://www.sunvic.co.uk/rjtypicalprog.pdf).

My junction box seem to be actually called a Relay Junction Box RJ 2802. I get a voltage of 240V between pins 6 and 8, but no reading between 6 and 19. Therefore I took a measurement between pin 6 and the top of the fuse (highlighted in blue in the wiring) and still no reading! Does this mean my junction box is knackered?


Tomorrow I will stick the electricity off again to remove the junction box from its unit, but doubt I will find anything useful.

Would anyone know what I could replace this RJ 2802 relay junction box with?
 
Hi
From your diagram, I would have thought the fault is only the 5 amp fuse, I would be surprised if this had not blown.
Tight nuts. This is no doubt due to jointing compound having got on the threads. I wouldn't think WD40 is going to help much. More force is usually the answer, with a second wrench to hold the valve body.
Another answer is to heat the nuts, but with soldered joints near, care has to be taken.
 
Thanks Mark, the 5A fuse is a brand new one which I have just installed. The problem is that before being a 5A fuse, the previous guy installed a 13A fuse.

Therefore I suspect this 13A fuse did not protect the board from the outage which is now damaged, however it would be great if someone could help finding out for sure.
 
OK I can only use your diagram, I really can't remember the fun and games I must have had with those boxes in the past.
If you have no reading between 6 & 19 there must be a problem on the board. One suggestion, If the supply to the system is fused at 5 amp or less, can you not bridge 8 to 19 and see what happens.
 
Would do that but then I bypass the fuse... instead I will first remove the circuit board from its unit, clean the track between pin 8 and the fuse (which I suspect has blown away) and bridge it with a wire. I just hope no other components got damaged... will update this thread shortly. Thanks for the help so far.
 
Yes, it sounds bad, but that was the intention to bypass the fuse, but only if there is another fuse in place.
BTW please be careful with that test meter, the low priced units tend to have some pretty poor insulation on the leads and probes.
 

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