Lynx 2 Water Pressure switch

[snes]

My Potterton Lynx 2 seems to have an appetite for water pressure switches. Over its 10-12 year life it must have got through about 5 - it did 2 last year alone!
Now, it's not an expensive part to have changed, and the boiler can be coaxed to run without it (keeping a keen eye on the w.p. gauge of course!), but I just wondered if any of the regulars could offer any advice?
The system is kept clean with all additives, inhibitors etc. It has had periodic drain downs when new rads have been fitted etc, so I dont think it's a case of sludge and muck blocking the sensor.
Also, can the switch be cleaned, adjusted etc instead of being replaced?
Thanks in advance for any words of wisdom, p*ss taking etc.

 

[chrishutt]

You don't say how the water pressure switches fail. Leakage? Faulty contacts?

 

[Agile]

I am assuming that its you who changes these!

It makes me wonder if you clean the socket properly when you fit new ones. This is a place where debris can collect.

You seem to have had more than the usual number of draindowns.

I also wonder exactly what chemicals you are using. Many of the cheap ones from sheds are pretty useless. I would only ever use one of the two main brands.

Do you have a leak on the system? Or another way, are you topping it up more often than every 10 weeks or so?

Tony Glazier

 

[snes]

I am assuming that its you who changes these!

Sorry agile, guilty as charged on this one. Any flak from this and I'll take my beating like a man - apologies to all good and decent plumbers out there!

I do clean the socket when I change the switch although it is not left in spotless condition - merely cleaned, wiped and rubbed.

Thanks for the comment about chemicals - I do buy the bottles from the sheds - should I stick to Fernox?

The system is, and always has been, completely leak free.

The problem is simply that the low water pressure led appears on the front panel, although pressure is rock steady at 1 bar. Increasing the pressure doe s not remove the led lighting up. If I touch the two wires, it extinguishes the light, performing the job that the switch should be doing.

Needless to say that the boiler will not fire up until the light is extinguished.

Thanks Chris, for your questions, and Agile for your patient response. Again, if I deserve rapped knuckles, I can accept whats coming.

Any more advice anyone?

 

[Agile]

Nothing more is coming. A water related fault can be dealt with by you if you do not electricute yourself.

In addition to what you say you did you must clean out the HOLE going to the water system.

You should operate the boiler at 1.5 Bar cold.

I really do advise using water treatment by Fernox or Sentinel instead of the sheds own products. They just want a bottle for 40p so they can charge you £3.90, noone ever tests these shed products.

Tony Glazier

 

[ChrisR]

You should operate the boiler at 1.5 Bar cold.