Magnetic filter recommendation

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Hi all

I am looking to get a magnetic sludge filter to fit on my central heating system. The most common one when I search is the Adey Magna Filter, however, Screwfix also sell a Flomaster branded one that is half the price of the Adey Magna Filter brand. Only difference I can see is the more expensive one has a longer guarantee.

Anyone else used a Flomaster one and is it decent enough or should I pay up for the more expensive one?
 
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I have a Fernox TF1 Omega in my system. It does what it says so I'm happy with it. Easy to clean out.
 
Another vote for the omega we have fitted literally hundreds.
Collects both magnetic and non magnetic debris all metal 25 year warranty no stupid large O ring seal to leak can be fitted at 45 degrees if needed.
What's not to like.
 
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Another vote for the omega we have fitted literally hundreds.
Collects both magnetic and non magnetic debris all metal 25 year warranty no stupid large O ring seal to leak can be fitted at 45 degrees if needed.
What's not to like.

Which is the one I have, but what's not to like - the silly drain valve. The drain valve, uses the blanking cap, as the handle for the valve, which is attached to the PF1 by a plastic lanyard thingummy. You have to remove the cap, then fiddle with it to locate it on the valve, to open it. Once opened and filter flushed, you have to fiddle about with the cap a second time, to shut off the flow - before you flood the container you are using to catch it in. Mine was quite a cramped for space installation, so it lacks any valves fitted on the flow into and out of the filter. I would suggest including the valves, where ever possible.

A simple valve with a fixed handle, would have been much more sensible. Apart from that, yep they are very good and well-designed.
 
I have the Adey filter, and it does need to be quite tight to stop it leaking. I suspect it is because our incoming mains is at about 6 bar or so, as we are near the bottom of a significant hill for our district water.
 
The Omega TF1 instructions say, when cleaning the debris out, to release the valve first, then take out the magnet second, which to my thinking seems the wrong way round. Taking the magnet out first, allows the magnetite collected around the magnet, to drop down to the bottom, and the valve, and be flushed out.
 
The Omega TF1 instructions say, when cleaning the debris out, to release the valve first, then take out the magnet second, which to my thinking seems the wrong way round. Taking the magnet out first, allows the magnetite collected around the magnet, to drop down to the bottom, and the valve, and be flushed out.
I take out my magnet, tap it on the body a couple of times to shake loose any trapped muck in the filter and then open the drain off valve and it is forced out under pressure (sealed system). I do this probably every six months or so. The water initially comes out black and when it’s running clear, I close it. I suppose I drain approximately half a teacupful before it runs clear. If you stir the magnet in the recently drained water, it picks up all the metal particles. I don’t have any shut-off valves either side of my filter as I read that they can restrict the water flow. I have opened the valve on a few occasions, forgetting to remove the magnet and the water runs clear immediately proving that the magnet really does hold on to those metal particles.
 
I don’t have any shut-off valves either side of my filter as I read that they can restrict the water flow. I have opened the valve on a few occasions, forgetting to remove the magnet and the water runs clear immediately proving that the magnet really does hold on to those metal particles.

Both of our experiences, suggest the TF1 instructions are simply wrong then. What I keep planning on doing, but keep forgetting to do, is take the magnet out, then give it a few minutes for the debris to drop to the bottom, but my system is so very clean, I doubt it would make much difference. Just a few speckles of magnetite, each time I clean it, which is why I've left it 14 months untouched, versus the wasting my time every few months that I did when first installed.
 
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I don’t have any shut-off valves either side of my filter as I read that they can restrict the water flow.
I considered this when I installed mine. Especially because my system is open vent and therefore not pressurised. The valves that come with the filter are a restricted bore as you imply.

However, as I still wanted the option of valves, I bought some good quality full bore lever valves and installed them in appropriate positions. This means there is very little, if any, restriction in the flow.

They have worked great.
(And yes, I know I used "yellow for gas" ones, but they are still appropriate and seemed better quality than the other options....and people are less likely to mess with them)
 

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I have the Adey filter, and it does need to be quite tight to stop it leaking. I suspect it is because our incoming mains is at about 6 bar or so, as we are near the bottom of a significant hill for our district water.
your incoming pressure has no effect at all on the filter as its on the heating side
 
I considered this when I installed mine. Especially because my system is open vent and therefore not pressurised. The valves that come with the filter are a restricted bore as you imply.

However, as I still wanted the option of valves, I bought some good quality full bore lever valves and installed them in appropriate positions. This means there is very little, if any, restriction in the flow.

They have worked great.
(And yes, I know I used "yellow for gas" ones, but they are still appropriate and seemed better quality than the other options....and people are less likely to mess with them)
I bought the filter kit without the valves. Apart from reading that they restricted the flow, I wondered how it would drain if both valves were closed either side of it. What is the purpose of the valves? I could understand it if the filter had to be dismantled for cleaning but in my pressurised system, I get a good blast when I open the drain valve.
 
I bought the filter kit without the valves. Apart from reading that they restricted the flow, I wondered how it would drain if both valves were closed either side of it. What is the purpose of the valves? I could understand it if the filter had to be dismantled for cleaning but in my pressurised system, I get a good blast when I open the drain valve.

Well, I would have liked them, as a backup to the awkward sediment drain valve, at the bottom.
 
IWhat is the purpose of the valves? I could understand it if the filter had to be dismantled for cleaning but in my pressurised system, I get a good blast when I open the drain valve.
The purpose of the valves are so that:

1. It can be totally isolated if needed, and removed for servicing or replacement.

2. It technically should aid flushing it out and reduce the chance of detritus being carried past the filter while you clean it via the filter flush valve.
You can close both valves, open the filter, then while keeping the valve after the filter closed, open the valve before the filter. This way you know the only outlet is the drain/flush valve.
 
So we inherited the Flomasta as fitted to our system. If you google remarks you will see the reason for it being half the price of others. It’s sold only by Screwfix, that’s my understanding, and it’s a hard plastic. The design has changed and now the inlet/Outlet ports are not off set, not a problem if you are about to fit one, but is if you have the original unit. Leaks at various points and the lid is a particular weak spot, reports of cracks and you can’t buy a lid as a replacement. I’ve cleaned it the once and it appears to catch bits onto its magnetic. As a lash-up I applied 2 part Epoxy resin to these weak areas about 6 weeks ago. It took this glue ok after a good clean and no signs of leaks. Will look to replace next Yr. Service kit about £9 when you just really need some plumbers grease and O ring.
 

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