Main Fuse blows after 15 min when request central heating

Most programmers are double insulated and therefore do not provide a path to earth - being specifically designed not to.

Therefore, unless you have a very old metal cased unit, this is a very unlikely contingency.
 
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I take it then you don't have a modern'ish programmer? As all programmers that I have come across do allow you to take the front off and access the electrics via a wall plate. This would then allow you to link up the circuit bypassing the programmer altogether. I have spoken to Drayton about this issue in the past and they, by their own admission have said that their programmers won't last forever and it's always the first place to look, specially when the problem is something tripping the circuit. But maybe you know better :D
 
It can be almost anywhere - had one where they'd wallpapered the hall and the wet paste had got to the thermostat connections :rolleyes:
 
Joeathome said:
Gents,

For the first time this year we flicked the timer switch to request central heating. The hot water has been working great all winter. Upon requesting central heating the radiators kicked in and provided heat. However after approx 15 mins the main fuse boxed tripped. After eliminating each fuse it would appear that the electrical problem is down to the central heating request. Turning the fuse box off again leaves me with electric but not heat. To verify this I kicked in the c.h. again 24 hr later and after 15 mins the same problem occurs. Doing this once more straight after the main fuse went straight away, I’m my mind suggesting that something is heating up and creating my issues. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, as the wife is requesting warmth.

Joe

Sorry to throw another one into the fray, but if you have a room stat and its of the old click type and not digital could it be that when the stat gets to satisfied that there is a fault on the anticipator circuit :?:

Just a thought

Stan
 
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I have changed the central heating water pump (£29 from Plumbworld) and its has now being running OK for an hour running from an independent power supply. So possibly problem solved. If it runs OK ill rewire it back into the timer.

Just one last question. The pump is running very hot, I would say almost to hot to touch. This is the case even when cool water is flowing through it!!!! Is this nornal. My only worry is that the pipes are restricted somewhat and the pump is having to work overtime to get the water round the system. I have turned the speed down to 1 (out of 3) to see if this cools this down. Any suggestions..?

Regardless, cheers fellas for your help, its not just the saving of cash but the sense of achievement sorting out your own troubles.. Thanks for your help...
 
Turn the pump and/or system off. If your pump has a vent screw at the front open it (this is where you will have probably bled it from) now turn the pump back on and you should be able to see the pump spinning inside (probably anti-clockwise), if not then its defo jammed like the last thread suggested.
 
the water valves are definatley open, and the water is going around the system well as all the radiators are working fine. We have the smell of radiator dust throughout the house.. (bliss) .. So I know that the pump is spinning fine, I was just suprise at how hot the water pump got. Its now been running 1 and a half hours on so it does look like my problem is solved. Ill let it run a few hours then wire it back in....

Thanks so much, if you guys ever need to know about fibre concrete, i may be able to help..

Joe
 
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Jazzy, please have a look at the Rules, esp. no. 20

Mod Rupert
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Sorry Rupert, I dont often think you could have done it better but....

In this case perhaps you could have transferred it to his own new posting for him?

Its called winning friends etc.

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OK, thanks for the tip. I did a few in the space of a couple of mins.

Rupe.
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Sorry Rup, My first post and the Topic was about Fuses blown in a Boiler, mines was similar. Will start my own one Thanks
 

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