Main Fuse
- Thread starter New2Game
- Start date
BS1361 >10000 secs @ 120A
Time/current characteristics only goes up to 100A for BS1361 (Fig 3.1)
You would have to ask a fuse manufacturer for any higher ratings (I had to for BS 88's)
You would have to ask a fuse manufacturer for any higher ratings (I had to for BS 88's)
K
kai
It is very bad practice to overload any fuse intentionally, get the wiring design sorted out, or order a larger supply line, if you really need the extra power demand 
I hope you're not trying to blow the main fuse hoping the DNO will just fit a bigger fuse when they come 
House has following;
Sockets 20A, 20A, 16A, 32A, 32A & 32A
Lights 10A, 6A, 6A
Cooker 32A & 32A
It has 100A main incoming fuse, is this acceptable?
If need to add a shower (7.5kw) 32A, lighting 6A (maybe only 200W tho) and ring (6 so's), would you need to upgrade supply line n main fuse? Considering shower maybe only on for 5-10 mins?
Sockets 20A, 20A, 16A, 32A, 32A & 32A
Lights 10A, 6A, 6A
Cooker 32A & 32A
It has 100A main incoming fuse, is this acceptable?
If need to add a shower (7.5kw) 32A, lighting 6A (maybe only 200W tho) and ring (6 so's), would you need to upgrade supply line n main fuse? Considering shower maybe only on for 5-10 mins?
What about diversity.Is it a standardish 2/3 bed house.How is it heated etc etc etc
Well for a domestic property diversity for:
socket circuits is 100% of first and then 40% of remainder
lighting is 66% of total
cookers 10A + 30% of remainder + 5A for a socket.
As ricicle shows in his first post it takes nearly 3 hours for a 100A fuse to blow when loaded at 120A so you really shouldn't have any problems adding a shower. Just try to avoid having the shower and cooker on at the same time. The lights and socket circuits shouldn't be drawing more than 10% of your total capacity unless your house is heated with electric heaters anyway.
Davy
socket circuits is 100% of first and then 40% of remainder
lighting is 66% of total
cookers 10A + 30% of remainder + 5A for a socket.
As ricicle shows in his first post it takes nearly 3 hours for a 100A fuse to blow when loaded at 120A so you really shouldn't have any problems adding a shower. Just try to avoid having the shower and cooker on at the same time. The lights and socket circuits shouldn't be drawing more than 10% of your total capacity unless your house is heated with electric heaters anyway.
Davy
The house, has 2 electric ovens, but gas hobs. Its heated by gas central heating. Dunno why has so many seperate ring mains.
The shower is to go in seperate outhouse building run from its own "garage" CU, so it can have lights and maybe socket or two.
The shower is to go in seperate outhouse building run from its own "garage" CU, so it can have lights and maybe socket or two.
Doesn't seem like a great problem to me, a house heated with gas with gas hob, but with 2 electric ovens and a small electric shower on a 100A fuse.
No electric boiler, no pottery kiln, no second shower, no particle acclerator, no arc furnance, etc
Max demand will be sub <100A
, clamp the tails for an exact figure
No electric boiler, no pottery kiln, no second shower, no particle acclerator, no arc furnance, etc
Max demand will be sub <100A
, clamp the tails for an exact figureagree with adam,
i do a lot of 'assessing' loads when deciding where to add new machines and where to run them from, the figure you imagine in your head is always lower than the real world figure of what your actually using at any one time.
personally i think the diversity guide in the OSG is a little 'cautious' to be honest. you can learn a lot from watchin the clamp meter at set intervals/time periods.
i do a lot of 'assessing' loads when deciding where to add new machines and where to run them from, the figure you imagine in your head is always lower than the real world figure of what your actually using at any one time.
personally i think the diversity guide in the OSG is a little 'cautious' to be honest. you can learn a lot from watchin the clamp meter at set intervals/time periods.
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