Mains water noise
- Thread starter linconhawk
- Start date
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Ok, Sorry for my lack of knowledge....but.....
How do I go about contacting my water board... I mean is there a charge for this ?
All of the toilets and sinks have isolating valves, which I could turn off one at a time, but surely its something that effects them all as the noise is there when any tap / toilet is used.
There is a cold water thing in the loft, a huge black box, but im not sure that effects much as the upstairs cold is direct from mains and the noise is there from the kitchen sink which is straight after the stopcock. ???
When you say strip the stopcock and replace the rubber washer, how do I go about that ? Turn off mains outside.
undo the nut at the base of the actual handle, and its in there ?
How do I go about contacting my water board... I mean is there a charge for this ?
All of the toilets and sinks have isolating valves, which I could turn off one at a time, but surely its something that effects them all as the noise is there when any tap / toilet is used.
There is a cold water thing in the loft, a huge black box, but im not sure that effects much as the upstairs cold is direct from mains and the noise is there from the kitchen sink which is straight after the stopcock. ???
When you say strip the stopcock and replace the rubber washer, how do I go about that ? Turn off mains outside.
undo the nut at the base of the actual handle, and its in there ?
Google is your friend mate and no, there is no charge they should be able to tell you on the phone.
You need to get someone who knows what they are doing.
Changing a washer on an incoming main stopcock is not for the fainthearted.
You need to get someone who knows what they are doing.
Changing a washer on an incoming main stopcock is not for the fainthearted.
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Ok, So it seems that the stopcock is the way to go...
Im not sure if I could replace the whole stopcock, as the access is pretty poor.
The blue plastic pipe seems to be cemented into place and the bottom of the stopcock is just under the cabinet floor, which cant easily be taken apart....
Also, If i did manage to get to it and undo the compression nuts, would the ends of the 2 pipes be able to flex enough to take it out and get the new one in ? its all pretty tight and compact under the sink... not much "flex".... ?????
If I choose to "repair" it, could someone please explain how I would go about this....
TIA
Im not sure if I could replace the whole stopcock, as the access is pretty poor.
The blue plastic pipe seems to be cemented into place and the bottom of the stopcock is just under the cabinet floor, which cant easily be taken apart....
Also, If i did manage to get to it and undo the compression nuts, would the ends of the 2 pipes be able to flex enough to take it out and get the new one in ? its all pretty tight and compact under the sink... not much "flex".... ?????
If I choose to "repair" it, could someone please explain how I would go about this....
TIA
You won't be able to mate,trust me.
You have to separate the valve from the body of the stopcock just below the handle/gland.This part is usually machined together and is virtually impossible to take apart in situ.
IMO of course.
You have to separate the valve from the body of the stopcock just below the handle/gland.This part is usually machined together and is virtually impossible to take apart in situ.
IMO of course.
I pressume you mean I wont be able to repair it... ?
I just presumed If I was to undo the gland nut, then the actual handle thing would come out and would reveal the washer etc ???
I guess not then ???
Ok, So If this is not possible, how do I go about changing the stopcock with the problems I face like the cabinet floor being in the way and the "flexing" of the pipes ?
Thanks so much
I just presumed If I was to undo the gland nut, then the actual handle thing would come out and would reveal the washer etc ???
I guess not then ???
Ok, So If this is not possible, how do I go about changing the stopcock with the problems I face like the cabinet floor being in the way and the "flexing" of the pipes ?
Thanks so much
Your going to have to get in a plumber mate,nothing else for it.
Think I've changed one washer on one mains stopcock in 35 years.
The flexing thing and the access are the problems.
Getting at the washer isn't that difficult when you have the valve in your hand but a different story in situ.
You have to hold the bottom part of the valve whilst unscrewing the (machined) nut below the gland,the bigger nut not the gland nut.
Best of luck.
Think I've changed one washer on one mains stopcock in 35 years.
The flexing thing and the access are the problems.
Getting at the washer isn't that difficult when you have the valve in your hand but a different story in situ.
You have to hold the bottom part of the valve whilst unscrewing the (machined) nut below the gland,the bigger nut not the gland nut.
Best of luck.
Hi people,
Ok, Ive had an idea and wanted your advice...
If I can somehow got to the stopcock by removing the bottom of my cabinet, this is what I was thinking....
Cut the pipework above the stopcock, there is a 15mm check valve installed, once pipework is cut, I would be able to get at the stopcock and remove it...
Replace with new stopcock and I thought a way to get around the "flexing" of the pipes to refit the pipe and stopcock would be to use a length of the flexible tap hose connecters.... Would that work ?
Also, do I need to re-install the check valve ? Im not 100% sure what it is used for ?
TIA
Ok, Ive had an idea and wanted your advice...
If I can somehow got to the stopcock by removing the bottom of my cabinet, this is what I was thinking....
Cut the pipework above the stopcock, there is a 15mm check valve installed, once pipework is cut, I would be able to get at the stopcock and remove it...
Replace with new stopcock and I thought a way to get around the "flexing" of the pipes to refit the pipe and stopcock would be to use a length of the flexible tap hose connecters.... Would that work ?
Also, do I need to re-install the check valve ? Im not 100% sure what it is used for ?
TIA
if you can post a pic, that would help a lot. We might see a better way.
The braided-cover flexible tap hoses, I have heard, sometimes fail at mains pressure. This is doubtless more likely if they have been kinked or twisted.
I have been using the white plastic hoses at mains pressure on my water softener for many years without probs.
I am just a householder.
The braided-cover flexible tap hoses, I have heard, sometimes fail at mains pressure. This is doubtless more likely if they have been kinked or twisted.
I have been using the white plastic hoses at mains pressure on my water softener for many years without probs.
I am just a householder.
Hi all,
Thought you all might like to know my progress....
Well, Ive fixed it....
I went to my local plumbing shop and bought the necessary fittings to have a go at replacing the stop cock as everyone suggested.
I explained to the man in the shop what I was planning to do and what parts I wanted... I said do I need to refit the check valve and if so, should I replace my current one.
He replied that I dont need one and he couldnt understand why one had been installed...
Anyway, I got home and cut out the run of pipework (about 6") AFTER the stop cock which included the check valve and replaced with a straight piece of 22mm copper pipe with a reducer to 15mm.
The noise is gone !! So, the problem was the check valve and nothing to do with the stopcock, so glad I didnt go ahead and try to change the stopcock...
Anyway, thanks for all your help and advise...
Lincon Hawk
Thought you all might like to know my progress....
Well, Ive fixed it....
I went to my local plumbing shop and bought the necessary fittings to have a go at replacing the stop cock as everyone suggested.
I explained to the man in the shop what I was planning to do and what parts I wanted... I said do I need to refit the check valve and if so, should I replace my current one.
He replied that I dont need one and he couldnt understand why one had been installed...
Anyway, I got home and cut out the run of pipework (about 6") AFTER the stop cock which included the check valve and replaced with a straight piece of 22mm copper pipe with a reducer to 15mm.
The noise is gone !! So, the problem was the check valve and nothing to do with the stopcock, so glad I didnt go ahead and try to change the stopcock...
Anyway, thanks for all your help and advise...
Lincon Hawk
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