This will end in tears with a customer who has a gate that looks like it has been made by a clown!
Andy
Andy
Making a gate?
- Thread starter Keitai
- Start date
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By the time you posted this you could've cut all the timber by hand.
Seriously, unplug that saw and sell it.
Seriously, unplug that saw and sell it.
This was awhile back and not sure if I actually cut without wood pushed against fence or just asked the question. How about if wood is pushed against fence but saw NOT locked in ?
Think saw locks into 45 degrees and another angle. Sometimes an angle of say 33 degrees needs cutting. The blade ISN'T locked in but wood is pushed against fence and held in place with hand (if small piece of wood to stop it flying out).
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D
Deleted member 174758
No, you plonked the wood on top of the fence and made a cut - that's why there is a score on top of the timber at an acute angle to the edge of the timber. Look at the position of the blade relative to the score line in the top of the wood
I think it's called a smoking gun
Assuming that is a DW712, your saw has mitre detentes at 10°, 15°, 22.5°, 31.62° and 45° both left and right, and at 50° left and 60° right. Intermediate angles have no detentes but the lever at the front will still lock the mitre angle just the same. The mitre and bevel angles aren't locked you are courting am accident.
D
Deleted member 174758
And now the gate "problem". The one at the start of this littany is just plain wrong, as though someone has tried to combine a ledged, braced and framed door with a ledged gate. A true ledged gate has either two or three cross bars (or "ledges") joining the "splats" (boards), but as others have said this results in a gate which is liable to sag over time, so the normal way to deal with this is to put three ledges across with two diagonals. The diagonals always run from bottom (hinge side) to top (latch side) and you always put two of them on there:
Normally the ledges are set in from the edges of the two outer most boards by 4 to 5mm and the ends are chamfered with a big 3 to 5mm chamfer. The diagonals are very easily marked - all you do is mark an inset point, say 25mm in from the ends of the ledges and offer a diagonal onto those points. Mark where the diagonal bisects the ledges at top and bottom, draw a line between the two marks at each end of the diagonal then saw it. A hand saw will do just fine. Sorry @opps but there isn't any need for pythagoras or any other mathematician to get involved. Simple set-out works a lot better and is far easier on the old grey matter, well my grey matter, anyway
BTW the assembly jig is handy if doing multiples.
If you want to get really fancy, for greater durability the top edges of the ledges should really be planed to a 5 to 10° slope to encourage standing water to run off whilst all sharp edges (arrises) should be smoothed over either with sand paper or a quick whizz over with a block plane - paint and stains tends to run away from arrises leading to a thinner coating at that point, and therefore less protection
Normally the ledges are set in from the edges of the two outer most boards by 4 to 5mm and the ends are chamfered with a big 3 to 5mm chamfer. The diagonals are very easily marked - all you do is mark an inset point, say 25mm in from the ends of the ledges and offer a diagonal onto those points. Mark where the diagonal bisects the ledges at top and bottom, draw a line between the two marks at each end of the diagonal then saw it. A hand saw will do just fine. Sorry @opps but there isn't any need for pythagoras or any other mathematician to get involved. Simple set-out works a lot better and is far easier on the old grey matter, well my grey matter, anyway
BTW the assembly jig is handy if doing multiples.
If you want to get really fancy, for greater durability the top edges of the ledges should really be planed to a 5 to 10° slope to encourage standing water to run off whilst all sharp edges (arrises) should be smoothed over either with sand paper or a quick whizz over with a block plane - paint and stains tends to run away from arrises leading to a thinner coating at that point, and therefore less protection
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D
Deleted member 174758
Yes. Very similar. Looked up the manuals for both and the chassis appears nearly identical on the two of them
it's DSC 365 (18V BATTERY)-
(Don't think it can be locked at every angle but I'll double check.)
https://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-d...MJ4aT4v4FJjgsyjoXOhoCdlQQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Jù
I can lock it at any angle up to 48 degrees left and right?
the knob you push down to move it round tightens by rotating clockwise to lock in any position without a lock notch
you just select the degree required and tighten the knob
D
Deleted member 174758
RTFM - again!!! 
maybe i am having brain freeze and confusing it with the 712 as i use both
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