Mandrel too big for my drill - help please

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Hi,

I am cutting a large hole (76mm) in a piece of wood. I have bought the holesaw with associated mandrel and have discovered the mandrel is too big to fit in the drill.

The drill will take upto 10mm but the mandrel is 11mm.

Is there an adapter that I can buy so it fits?

Thanks for any help
 
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You may be able to buy a 13mm chuck to fit your drill. Check with the manufacturer.
 
what make is the holesaw??
if it is the kind where the arbor screws on then starret t do arbors to fit 3/8" aswell as 1/2" chucks
 
get some kind soul with a lathe, to turn the mandrel down to 10mm....err or whatever people with lathes do....... :eek:
 
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wilhelm said:
get some kind soul with a lathe, to turn the mandrel down to 10mm....err or whatever people with lathes do....... :eek:
The mandrel should be hardened and tempered steel - not easy to turn at all....

Scrit
 
Yes, it's called a toolpost grinder and they've been around for more than 100 years. It's just that very few home engineers have them. It is difficult to turn down hardened and tempered steel using conventional turning tools (even TiN-coated carbide tips) unless you anneal them first - and you moght as well buy a new mandrel or even a new drill. Hells bells, a 1/2in chuchk is less than £20.....

Scrit
 
i realy wouldnt recomend fitting a larger chuck !!!
if the drill was up to powering a 13mm chuck it would have one

having said that if you drill guide says it will be up to drilling a hole the size you want then by all means go ahead ;)
 
wilhelm said:
im sure , there are ways. this is 2006.
That's as maybe, but mandrels usually have a hexagonal shaft, and they do so for a reason!
 
Go to any tool rental place with your drill and ask to see if you can fit ANY of their SDS bits in your drill. If you can, and the bit doesn't wobble when spun on YOUR drill, then inquire further about their SDS rotary hammer drills, and the accessories that are available for them.

Normally, anyone making a rotary hammer with an SDS chuck will also make an accessory for it to allow you to use ORDINARY twist drill bits in that rotary hammer (when the tool is on the "rotate only" mode). So, that way, if you're using that SDS rotary hammer to drill 1/2 inch holes in concrete, you can also use that same rotary hammer (on rotate only mode) to drill 1/2 inch holes through the wood or steel that's going to be attached to that concrete with 1/2 inch diameter anchors. You don't need a separate drill for the wood or steel; you can just use the regular chuck accessory in the SDS chuck of the rotary hammer to drill through wood or steel. And, I'm thinking you can RENT that accessory and mount the 11 mm shaft of the mandrel in the accessory, and then mount the accessory in the 10 mm chuck of your drill.

Such an accessory will consist of a Jacobs style or keyless chuck (typical of smaller electric drills) mounted on a short keyed and indented shaft (suitable for inserting into an SDS chuck on a rotary hammer drill). The whole business will be about 4 inches long.

The "accessory chuck" for my Hilti TE-10 rotary hammer drill will accept up to 1/2 inch drill bits and has an SDS shaft that appears to be just slightly under 10 mm in diameter. The SDS section of that accessory is about 1 inch long, so as long as you can drop that accessory in deeper than 1 inch into your 10 mm chuck then the jaws of your 10 mm chuck will close on the round part of the accessory shaft and not on the keyed and indented portion (where it would wobble as a result).

If you can't get your 10 mm chuck to tighten on the round part of the SDS accessory chuck, try just wrapping some duct tape arount the shaft of the accessory to minimize any wobbling so that you can still drill the hole (albeit with a wobbling electric drill).

(But, inquire as to how much they'd want to rent you ONLY that accessory. For lack of a rental rate on the accessory, they might want to charge the same as if they rented you the entire rotary hammer! If they won't bend on that, take $100 down to your local high school as a damage deposit and ask the shops instructor to loan you a drill that will work. If you return the drill undamaged, then you get the $100 back. Since you presumably pay property tax from which the schools boards derive their operating income, then it's your taxes that pay that shop instructor's salary and for all the tools he has in his shop for the students to use.)
 
And if all of that fails, you could take in Toad dressed as a washer woman who could then distract the staff with his suppurating bufine odour while you snaffle away a drill beneath his generous bustle.
 
Softus said:
And if all of that fails, you could take in Toad dressed as a washer woman who could then distract the staff with his suppurating bufine odour while you snaffle away a drill beneath his generous bustle.
ROFLMAO!
 
as i implied before - take the thing back to where you bought it and swop the arbor for one that will fit in a 10mm chuck - simple really
 
a 10mm chuck is a bit small and girly, have a think about buying a bigger drill if you're going to be doing much DIY.

Many people have 2 or 3 drills of different sizes and weights

A small light one can be very handy, especially if you're holding it high or above your head or doing lots of repetitive work or driving screws. And a big one for big holes.
 

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