Mason's Mitre

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I know there already posts relating to the the Mason's Mitre on here relating to kitchen worktops and this is a cut I have no problem with. however, soon I will be fitting square edge wood block worktops and I really can't see the benefit of the mason's mitre for this application.

Is it ok to use the worktop connecting bolts x 2 per join with biscuits and translucent silicone and just butt the worktops?

Thank you.
 
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afaik then yes,masons mitre is only used to allow the flow of the worktop of the round.or when your joining to different width window boards etc.
 
Thank you foxhole and gregers, could I ask one other question.

I don't own a drainer jig, but from what I have seen on line I reckon I could make one out of mdf just as easy as buy one. They all seem to have seven grooves the only thing I can't work out is what the spacings are, could anyone give me this info please.
 
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You could choose spacing , quantity to suit yourself, thought the wife prefers the freestanding plastic drainers she can put away when not in use. I suppose you could make a free standing version with an off-cut of work-top as another option.
 
Forget MDF for a drainer - it will fall to bits in a week in a wet situation. If you have a router and are reasonable competant you can make a drainer in your worktop. The difficult bit is planing a slope down the drainage area first. I made a jig out of 12mm plywood clamped to the worktop and moved it across for each channel.
 
I am not entirely sure what you mean by planing a slope down the draining area. Having never done this before I am a bit green! I thought the idea of the the drainer jig was to groove the worktop to enable the water within the grroves to drain back into the sink.

I also read that I need to router a drip into the underside of the worktop where the worktop over hangs the sink on all three sides, how much overhang is permissable in this application, thanks.

BTW i have bought a dranier jig.
 

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