Massive Tiling Problem - Really Need Some Help

[Ninja_1980]

Yesterday I noticed there was a slight leak under by bath/shower. I assumed this was down to a sealant leak, so started removing all silicon sealant from around the bath. I soon noticed some tiles were loose and the grout was cracked. I began removing the loose tiles, the adhesive didn’t stick to the wall at all. It totally came off with the tile and there was mould on the wall.

When the wall was 1st tiled, the stud wall was covered with 18mm WBP ply and tiled straight away. Should I have given it some kind of sealing coat? Also, the wall with the shower was tiled onto plaster (bonding). I took a single tile off this wall and again, the adhesive didn’t stick to the wall at all.

See attached pic. Any advise would be welcome

Untitled

• Ninja_1980
• 17 May 2009
• 1

Untitled

• Ninja_1980
• 17 May 2009
• 1

 

[lancenotalot]

From the pics it looks as if you used a tub adhesive,tiling onto ply requires a flexi powdered adhesive.

Tiling onto bonding coat is a no no as it wont bond.

Some acrylic primer and tanking fluid would have helped around the shower area.

Does there appear to be any water ingress apart from were the silicone failed,I cant really tell from the pic.

 

[Ninja_1980]

There are water ingress stains and mold around where the grout was cracked. I really need to know why the grout cracked in the 1st place so I can get it right this time, do you have any ideas?

I was thinking of doing the following:

1) Let it dry out for a few weeks
2) Prime the ply with Bal ADP primer
3) Re-tile the patch using a better quality adhesive
4) Apply a grout sealant after grouting

Would this work, or should I rip off all the tiles and tank the whole area? Also, can someone recommend a good quality powder tile adhesive?

 

[gcol]

From the pics it looks as if you used a tub adhesive,tiling onto ply requires a flexi powdered adhesive.

Tiling onto bonding coat is a no no as it wont bond.

Some acrylic primer and tanking fluid would have helped around the shower area.

Does there appear to be any water ingress apart from were the silicone failed,I cant really tell from the pic.

You can use Bal White Star directly onto ply - flexi powdered adhesive is not necessary. Having said that, I would always shy away from fitting ply as a wall substrate prior to tiling.

There are water ingress stains and mold around where the grout was cracked. I really need to know why the grout cracked in the 1st place so I can get it right this time, do you have any ideas?

I was thinking of doing the following:

1) Let it dry out for a few weeks
2) Prime the ply with Bal ADP primer
3) Re-tile the patch using a better quality adhesive
4) Apply a grout sealant after grouting

Would this work, or should I rip off all the tiles and tank the whole area? Also, can someone recommend a good quality powder tile adhesive?

First off, I would suggest that this is one of the reasons that I always advise tanking around a shower area and especially if you want to use mosaics. You wouldn't usually tank a ply wall.
Due to the mosaics, I think you're gonna end up with the same problem unless you properly waterproof the substrate. You're best off replacing the wall with plasterboard. Tank that and then tile - that'll solve your wall damage problem.
You need to ensure that the floor is firm and doesn't "give" with weight in the bath or this will put extra strain on the silicone seal which could potentially lead to failure.
I'm betting that your silicone seal was sound and the problem was that moisture has gotten to the ply via the grout around the mosaics..... the adhesive has softened and loosened; which has caused the tiles to come loose and the grout to crack. Water has then been running through that cracks and down the back of the tiles.

 

[Ninja_1980]

Thanks for the info.

I'm very reluctant to remove the ply backing unless I really have to. Can I tank the ply? I've had a look at a BAL WP1 kit, would this be suitable or should I bite the bullet and fit a better substrate?

 

[gcol]

If you look at the data sheet for that product, it suggests that you can tank ply when it's overlaying floorboards. It makes no mention of when used on walls. I can't see any real reason why you shouldn't be able to tank ply walls, but maybe you can call them and ask.

 

[Ninja_1980]

Hi

The wall is nearly dry and I'm going to do the tanking this w-end. Has anyone got any experience with this Dunlop product:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/79333...chen-Bathroom/Dunlop-Shower-Waterproofing-Kit

Or should I stick to the BAL WP1 kit?

Thanks

 

[dextrous]

If the ply is firmly attached to the wall, I'd screw aquapanel to it and tile direct. Just done my own bathroom, umming and aahing between aquapanel and MR board with Bal tanking kit. Worked out cheaper and more reliable to use aquapanel - 4 sheets of this with screws for about £50 compared with price of tanking. You can infill areas beyond this with plasterboard (preferably moisture resistant) and tile direct to this.

Either moving the bath away from the wall or allowing an overhang isn't too difficult.