MDF cupboard door - how to / how not to...

[DoctorC]

I have a hole in my living room wall to a cupboard housing UFH manifold and a few other bits and pieces.
I need to make a door to fit in the hole that can be flush painted white to match in with the room, and apart from a discreet trim, be fairly un-obtrusive.

the opening is about 18" wide by 3'6" high, and starts just above the skirting, which is continuous.

I was planning to use a piece of 18mm MDF that i have lying around, with a pine frame glued and screwed to the back around the edges, painted both sides, hinged and then magnetic catches to close.

I read somewhere on here that a frame to one side of an MDF panel may cause it to warp. Is this correct? Should i have a diagonal cross brace across the back of the panel as well?

18mm MDF seems eminently up to the job. Am i missing something?!

thanks!

 

[awbcm]

Yes you did see a thread regarding the warping of a MDF panel when a soft or hardwood frame is glued to one side only. And yes if you construct the door using this method the MDF panel will warp.

Why do you want to add a soft wood frame to the 18mm MDF panel ? It doesn’t need it take a look at bedroom and kitchen furniture doors of a similar size do they have a timber frame; no they don’t.

If you use the same type of hinge of that which is used in kitchen units but one that are suitable for inset doors not over lay doors then you wont need to use any magnetic catches either.

And if you play your cards right you wont need any trim or mini architrave.

18mm MDF is sound that’s what its made for but saying that I would use 22 or 25mm MDF.

But remember that panel you have had kicking about may already be warped due to bad storage.

If you have trouble in getting the hinges let me know and I can supply them.

 

[DoctorC]

many thanks

the 18mm isn't warped. It has been stored dry and flat (with other flat things on top!) seems a shame to buy more if it will do the job.

i'll let you know about the hinges!

 

[awbcm]

Forgot to mention you could use push to open concealed hinges and then you would need no handles thus making the door more inconspicuous.

This is part of a reply I posted on another forum regarding a concealed door in wall panelling. I also did a drawing but I don’t think it would mean much in your situation

Generally there are two types of concealed cabinet hinges ( as used on kitchen cabinets etc ) these are known as push to close and push to open. The push to close hinge as a positive sprung while the push to open as a negative sprung. The push to open hinges are for handle less furniture doors and are used in conjunction with a independently mounted spring / holding device to push the door open when a small amount of pressure is applied.

The doors can be mounted flush to the frame they don’t need any excess movement what so ever.

Push to open concealed hinges are available for inset or over lay doors.