Meile T8402C no heat

[roguewave]

Hello all you expert's out there,I really need you help.I have a Meile T8402C tumble dryer but it is not heating anymore.I checked the heater ,it's fine,thermostat is open so going to order a new one but when I briefly tried bypassing the thermostat and joining the wire's together I still didn't get any heat so wondering if there is more wrong with it than the thermostat.It was working fine until some one knocked a duvet off the top of it and down the back of the machine and blocking the air intake vent's,so think that is the cause I presume ,lol.The machine iron light flashes after about 3 minute's then the machine stop's
Thank's in advance to any one who take's the time to reply

 

[zipper]

I checked the heater ,it's fine

If the heater is ok but the thermostat is O/C then it should heat if you temporarily short out the thermostat connections (ONLY as a test).
But be aware.....if you try run the machine on a program (without damp clothes in it) it'll stop & show an error after a few mins.
Try running it on a timed cycle, that bypasses the residual dampness circuit.

 

[roguewave]

Thank's for the reply,i'll try that in the morning.I have only tried it on the automatic cycle so hope this work's.Thank's again for the advice

 

[roguewave]

Zipper I went and tried it just now but stll no joy.Put in wet clothes and used different cycles but error light still flashes after a couple of minutes.tried the heater straight from 240 volt source and it glowing good.It seems like the machine isn't getting the the message through telling the heater to turn on.If there isn't anything else to try i'll skip it but it is a shame as it was a great dryer.

 

[zipper]

Don't give up on it just yet....it breaks my heart when Miele products get trashed
If the element is ok then check the NTC on the heater-bank + the NTC in the front of the machine. Both should measure around 14k Ω cold & around 1.5k Ω at 85C.
The front NTC is a common cause of no-heat issues on these models. To get at it the front panel has to be removed...but it isn't a huge job.

 

[roguewave]

Getting 16.83k ish on the front ntc under the front panel and nothing on the ntc at the heater box ?

 

[zipper]

Change it if it is O/C.

 

[roguewave]

Rite e ho, so new thermostat and new ntc.where is the best place to order these parts from as I looked at espares.com and there was a couple of different ntc's

 

[zipper]

http://www.partmaster.co.uk/cgi-bin/search.pl?query=5435972&frmSFinder_headerSubmit=Search
http://www.partmaster.co.uk/cgi-bin/search.pl?query=5432490&search.x=0&search.y=0

 

[roguewave]

Thank's zipper i'll order them now

 

[roguewave]

Hello again zipper,fitted the new part's but still no heat.Do you have any more idea's/advice as it would be really appreciated as i'm £75 badger's in to this machine now,thank's

 

[zipper]

Does it heat on a timed cycle?
Can you post the "mat. number" on the door sticker (40/-------).

 

[roguewave]

Tried it on a couple other cycles still no heat.Runs for a 45 seconds or so then light second from top blinks repeatedly.Number on door is 40/89979100,thank's steve

 

[zipper]

I couldn't run up a schematic for this model. How many leads come out of the element, 2 or 3?
Take off the front, heater cover, & lid (you should find a wiring diagram/legend tucked away somewhere under the lid). Check continuity of the heater bank NTC cables back to the separate heater module at the rear RH side just under the lid. Check continuity of the front NTC back to the main pcb. If both are ok then either the front NTC is bad, the heater module is defective, or the main pcb isn't delivering control voltage to heater module. Be aware there is a constant 240v supply at the heater module (control voltage is supplied via a ribbon cable from the main pcb). You could try popping the front NTC into a cup of very hot water, at 85C the resistance should drop to under 2k Ω (14 to 15k Ω at 20C). But even if it seems to check out reasonably ok it isn't any guarantee the NTC is good (response time may be way too slow). If the cabling checks out ok then the cheapest fix you'll get is the front NTC at around £50, then comes the heater module at around £100, an unlikely third place culprit is the main pcb....you don't want to know what that costs

 

[roguewave]

2 wires come from the element,checked wiring as you suggested and all appear's well.As I said on the last reply £75 in now and think i'm going to cut my loses and break it up and sell the part's on fleabay to recoup the cost of the thermostat and rear ntc.Thank's again for giving me the advice and at least I know I tried,or we haha.Still cheaper than £200 for Miele to come and say it's knackered anyway.Once again thank's alot mate !