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- 26 Nov 2018
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Why is the sync motor too hot to touch when both CH and HW are resting? Please bear with my thinking out loud, I'd appreciate comments. Installation c30 yrs old.
CH wasn't turning on, either to timed or override control (Honeywell 4033) however a Vmeter showed setting the CH, HWon and HWoff was correct, (according to Honeywell).
Room stat OK so it's either the actuator failing or the physical valve wasn't opening for CH? The sync motor wasn't open circuit so suggesting it was the gearing/switches behind that, or the brass!
Actuator off and the brass moved from around 5 to, to 5 past, thro upright, which comparing to one removed a few years back seems right. Buying and fitting a new actuator followed, but although both CH and HW seem to be working, the sync motor clearly isn't happy as it doesn't stop trying to move the actuator beyond it's stop point. The grey wire is continually powered when there is no call for either CH or HW.
To fit the actuator move the side lever to MAN (and so aligning the motor drive spindle(?) to parallel to the body). However, my spindle doesn't move to that position in either MAN or AUTO - when viewed from the rear only reaching '5 to' or '10 to' resp. Thus, to fit it I have to push it on skewed, then force turn it to fit the screws.
Thoughts? Surely having the motor continually powered for more hours than not is wrong? It's cool when either the heating or water is calling. Not being able to align the 'spindle' to fit the valve spigot suggests a fault with the new actuator? I've poured over the drawings on line but can't find any description of what the micro-switches do. Yes, S1 powers the motor, but S2? Heating only (connecting white to orange).
CH wasn't turning on, either to timed or override control (Honeywell 4033) however a Vmeter showed setting the CH, HWon and HWoff was correct, (according to Honeywell).
Room stat OK so it's either the actuator failing or the physical valve wasn't opening for CH? The sync motor wasn't open circuit so suggesting it was the gearing/switches behind that, or the brass!
Actuator off and the brass moved from around 5 to, to 5 past, thro upright, which comparing to one removed a few years back seems right. Buying and fitting a new actuator followed, but although both CH and HW seem to be working, the sync motor clearly isn't happy as it doesn't stop trying to move the actuator beyond it's stop point. The grey wire is continually powered when there is no call for either CH or HW.
To fit the actuator move the side lever to MAN (and so aligning the motor drive spindle(?) to parallel to the body). However, my spindle doesn't move to that position in either MAN or AUTO - when viewed from the rear only reaching '5 to' or '10 to' resp. Thus, to fit it I have to push it on skewed, then force turn it to fit the screws.
Thoughts? Surely having the motor continually powered for more hours than not is wrong? It's cool when either the heating or water is calling. Not being able to align the 'spindle' to fit the valve spigot suggests a fault with the new actuator? I've poured over the drawings on line but can't find any description of what the micro-switches do. Yes, S1 powers the motor, but S2? Heating only (connecting white to orange).
