Miele condenser dryer blowing cold air only

[Susanne]

My Miele T294C condenser is blowing only cold air, and I'm wondering whether it perhaps happened after a power-cut we had.

I found this thread: //www.diynot.com/forums/appliances/miele-t4809c-tumble-dryer-not-heating-up.288028/


However, I can't get the back panel off since all the screws in my machine are star-shaped, and none of my screwdriver/Allen key bits seem to fit.

Any advice on how to get the star-shaped screws off?

Any other advice on what I could do?

I can't find a reset button anywhere on the machine, is there one hiding somewhere?

Thanks,
Susanne

 

[zipper]

You need a T20 torx bit....try Halfords.
There is no "reset" button...either on the machine or the thermostat behind the cover you need to remove to check it.
You will need a multimeter/continuity tester to check the thermostat & heater element...try halfords....
Remember to pull the plug before doing anything

 

[mikeyd]

Any advice on how to get the star-shaped screws off?

Use a star shaped screwdriver Proper name is Torx.

Edit: Too slow typing again.

 

[Susanne]

I've now unscrewed all the screws that hold that plate in place on the back of the machine, but the plate won't come off!

I've tried unscrewing the top of the machine as well, but as far as I can see when following the wiring when looking down from the top of the machine, I definitely have to get behind that plate on the back of the machine.

Is there a special way of getting that plate off?

And, why all the screws to hold it in place, if it doesn't come off once all the screws are gone!!?

 

[zipper]

The cover tends to stick on the silicone seal. You need to lever it off...it will release.

 

[Susanne]

I now got the back plate off, thanks. The silicone seal didn't stay intact, but more on that further down in this mail.

Behind the back plate was a heating element, with 2 leads attached.

I was just going to locate the thermostat, and bash it like described in the other thread, since I don't have any meters to measure with.

However, looking at the heating element, I am not sure which one is the thermostat, is it the one on the left or the right?
And what is that black, round thing above it?

Untitled

• Susanne
• 10 Dec 2011
• 1

Untitled

• Susanne
• 10 Dec 2011
• 1

Re. the seal on the back plate:

The silicone seal broke in 2 places (ie. 2 short pieces stayed stuck to the machine, whereas the rest stayed attached to the plate I took off). I guess this means that there's a chance that the machine will leak water where those 2 breaks are?

I guess this is a benefit of having a certified engineer come out - they'll reseal your plate with a new silicone seal... or could I buy such a seal somewhere?

 

[zipper]

B&Q or any other builders merchant/Halfords etc will sell you a tube of RTV silicone. Just patch up the missing bits, it isn't a big deal.
You need a circuit tester or cheap meter to check the thermostat, again try Halfords they only cost a few quid. The thermostat is the largest one (on the right of your picture). The one on the left is an NTC sensor. The "black thing" in the middle is the bearing cover & has nothing to do with the heater.

 

[Susanne]

Thanks a lot, Zipper, and I'll keep the silicone in mind.


I actually managed to get the thermostat out of the machine, wohoo, and realise that the next step is to try to shock it back into action.

Which way should I bang it against the floor to reset it, "flat back" down, or two-prongs down?


I gather that I need the circuit tester to see whether there's a charge, and if there is, does it mean the thermostat is working again?

I won't be able to get hold of a circuit tester for a couple of days. In the meanwhile, would it be safe to re-fit the freshly agitated thermostat and quickly testing the dryer again, without re-fitting the back plate?

Or is this very wrong and dangerous to do?

 

[zipper]

Susanne; although a tripped safety thermostat is a very common cause of no-heat issues & one of the first things to check.....it is only one of several possible culprits. You really need to confirm it has actually popped. If you get hold of a meter you will also be able to check the heating element and NTC as well. It is possible to reset a tripped thermostat by "shocking" it as explained in the other post, but you don't know for certain it has popped in the the first place. Whatever you do don't bang it on the connection end, it will break it & a new one costs around £25. If you want to go ahead & try to test it anyway refit the cover first. Then try it on a timed cycle (you will feel heat on the outside cover if it works). If it heats on a timed cycle try it on a program.
PS. The silicone sealant is to stop hot air escaping...not to prevent water leaking out.

 

[Susanne]

Thanks Zipper, I'll wait for the meter, sounds like I will be wasting my time otherwise.

Cheers