I have a Miele dishwasher that will not fill up properly. It drains, fills with a small amount of water in the bottom and then everything stops. Does anyone know where to find the pressure switches and how to check they're working properly (multimeter testing or should they have water in them etc.?).
Miele Dishwasher Problems - Pressure Switch?
- Thread starter seally13
- Start date
Sponsored Links
G641 Plus
Could it be anything other than the pressure switch(es)? It was sat in a garage for about a year before I got it.
Sponsored Links
There are two pressostats on this model...but they rarely fail. Not to say it can't happen, it just doesn't happen very often. If the dishwasher has been stored in a garage for a year then yes things can go wrong. Wash motor seals can seize, valves can jam or get frost damage etc.
I suggest you check the fault-log before performing any kind of major surgery.
Close the door & switch off. Turn the program selector to 12 o'clock. Press & hold in the start button. Switch on & release the start button within 1 sec then immediately press it twice. If successful the inlet/drain & the salt LED's flash. If not repeat the sequence. Turn the selector to the 1 o'clock position & press the start button once. If the start LED lights up no fault is registered in the fault-log. If it doesn't light up turn the selector slowly clockwise until the start LED does light up. Post the selector (o'clock) position here.......
To quit & save the fault-log turn the selector back to 12 o'clock before switching off, otherwise the fault-log is deleted.
Did it actually work before you got it???
I suggest you check the fault-log before performing any kind of major surgery.
Close the door & switch off. Turn the program selector to 12 o'clock. Press & hold in the start button. Switch on & release the start button within 1 sec then immediately press it twice. If successful the inlet/drain & the salt LED's flash. If not repeat the sequence. Turn the selector to the 1 o'clock position & press the start button once. If the start LED lights up no fault is registered in the fault-log. If it doesn't light up turn the selector slowly clockwise until the start LED does light up. Post the selector (o'clock) position here.......
To quit & save the fault-log turn the selector back to 12 o'clock before switching off, otherwise the fault-log is deleted.
Did it actually work before you got it???
Thanks for your help zipper. I've done what you said and the green fault light comes on in the 9 o'clock position.
Apparently the dishwasher worked fine before it was taken out of the kitchen it was in and stored in the garage! It did have a small amount of water in the bottom when I got it.
Apparently the dishwasher worked fine before it was taken out of the kitchen it was in and stored in the garage! It did have a small amount of water in the bottom when I got it.
9 o'clock = error F08.
Some possible causes:
Circulation pump seals seized after long storage (likely).
Heating level switch defective (unlikely).
Circulation pump motor or capacitor defective (unlikely).
Circulation pump impellor jammed (unlikely).
Lie the machine on its back & remove the baseplate. Locate the circulation pump & turn the rotor a few times. Miele have a special tool for this purpose but you can use a thin screwdiver. Be careful not to damage the motor windings!. You'll know if the seals have seized if the rotor is tight to turn initially.
Some possible causes:
Circulation pump seals seized after long storage (likely).
Heating level switch defective (unlikely).
Circulation pump motor or capacitor defective (unlikely).
Circulation pump impellor jammed (unlikely).
Lie the machine on its back & remove the baseplate. Locate the circulation pump & turn the rotor a few times. Miele have a special tool for this purpose but you can use a thin screwdiver. Be careful not to damage the motor windings!. You'll know if the seals have seized if the rotor is tight to turn initially.
zipper, I've tried doing what you said. I managed to get a screwdriver inbetween the windings on the motor and turn the metal rotor blades inside. They were stiff initially but soon freed off and turned easily after a couple of rotations. I put it back together and tried the washer but it's still doing the same as before - draining then filling the side tank and then nothing apart from the occasional buzzing inside coupled with clicking of the selector switch now and again.
I've tried the fault code analysis method you explained before and it still lights up in the 9 o'clock position. Do I need to reset this before it will work or will it do it automatically once the problem is resolved? What do you think the next most likely cause of the error could be?!
I've tried the fault code analysis method you explained before and it still lights up in the 9 o'clock position. Do I need to reset this before it will work or will it do it automatically once the problem is resolved? What do you think the next most likely cause of the error could be?!
Thanks for your patience. I've tried erasing the fault log by putting it into the error reading mode and then switching off without turning the selector switch to the stop position but this didn't seem to work. When I put it back in error mode after I thought I had erased it and without running the washer it still shows an error at the 9 o'clock position. Am I doing it right or is there something I'm missing?
Ok. Forget about deleting the fault log for the moment.
The wash motor seals were obviously sticking but ok now. How much water is left covering the base when it stops? If the machine under-fills the level switch(s) won't engage causing the machine to time-out. Run a new cycle. As soon as it starts filling open the door & add water until it covers 2 - 3cm at the lowest point. Then close the door & see what happens (it may take a little trial & error). If the machine starts washing then the problem is under-filling, in which case it could mean a faulty WPS valve, flowmeter, or pressostat.
The wash motor seals were obviously sticking but ok now. How much water is left covering the base when it stops? If the machine under-fills the level switch(s) won't engage causing the machine to time-out. Run a new cycle. As soon as it starts filling open the door & add water until it covers 2 - 3cm at the lowest point. Then close the door & see what happens (it may take a little trial & error). If the machine starts washing then the problem is under-filling, in which case it could mean a faulty WPS valve, flowmeter, or pressostat.
When it stops the base is only just covered and the water doesn't quite go all the way to the edges. I'll give this a go and let you know what happens! Thanks for your help so far.
Ok, I've tried it with various amounts of water in the bottom. On each occasion I waited until it started to fill then put the water in before closing the door. Initially with a small amount of water the washer did the same thing it usually does and stopped after it had filled. As I put more water in it did the same but then one time it just completely went quiet and did nothing else, not even the usual buzzing I get after it's filled without me adding any extra water. I haven't managed to make it do this again. However, when I put even more water in so the bottom was around 3cm full then closed the door, the washer stopped filling and started draining straight away. I haven't managed to make it start washing no matter what level of water I put in.
*Apologies, my phone's playing up, hence the three posts!
You need to check the following...
Remove the pressostat on the circ. pump/sump housing & check it is switching (with a multimeter). Remove the plug to the flowmeter on the brake tank. Clean the terminals & make sure it is re-seated properly (lower RH side). If you have the possibility/ability trace the 2 leads to the inlet valve & hotwire it to check flow into the machine. Post the mat. no. & S/N on the door sticker so I can track down a wiring diagram.
Remove the pressostat on the circ. pump/sump housing & check it is switching (with a multimeter). Remove the plug to the flowmeter on the brake tank. Clean the terminals & make sure it is re-seated properly (lower RH side). If you have the possibility/ability trace the 2 leads to the inlet valve & hotwire it to check flow into the machine. Post the mat. no. & S/N on the door sticker so I can track down a wiring diagram.
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
