Miele T 294 C tumble dryer

[shoz]

Hi everyone

I have a Miele tumble dryer that always beeps soon after starting the drying cycle. All filters are clear, water is emptied but still it beeps. There is a section in the manual that says it can be turned off by pressing buttons in a certain sequence, I have tried this but it doesn't work.
The warranty has now run out and don't fancy the idea of 'getting a man in'. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks.

 

[zipper]

We need more information + the S/N on the door sticker.
Forget the buzzer, that only tells you there is a problem, it doesn't tell you what the problem is.
Error codes are displayed by LED status. Which LED(s) are lit (or flash) when the machine stops & the buzzer sounds?
Which program did you select & how long does the cycle run before it stops?

 

[shoz]

Many thanks for your quick response, I hope the information below is what you need -

The rating label says

Nr 40/8989837
Type HT19-1
M-Nr 06985030

If I load the drum and start the cycle on Cotton Normal +, a solid 'drying' light comes on. After 3-5 minutes the beeping starts and the light changes to a solid 'cool air'.
The dryer doesn't stop but keeps on working with the constant beeping.
What I normally do is switch off and start again but with the same result. If I leave the dryer working for 10-15 minutes the beeping sometimes stops.

 

[zipper]

Ok...throw in some wet clothes & run a timed drying cycle (not an auto program). Does it heat & complete the cycle without an alarm?

 

[shoz]

Ok, silly question time now - how do I run a timed cycle? I thought you just turned the dial on the front and everything it points to was an auto program.

I tried it on Automatic and then Normal but still the same.

 

[zipper]

No...you also have timed hot & cold options. Look at your control panel & select the 30min warm cycle (about 7 o'clock on the program selector). You can try it without a load inside, it doesn't really make much difference. If it runs & heats on a timed cycle without any alarm then the heater, safety stat, & probably also the rear NTC are ok. In which case the problem is likely to be either the residual dampness circuit or the front NTC. Its a process of elimination.

 

[shoz]

Tried it on the 30 minute setting but no difference

Like to thank you for your patience btw.

 

[zipper]

Ok...you got a multimeter & know how to use it to check continuity/resistance? Plug out & remove the large diamond shaped cover at the rear (10-12 T20 screws). You will see the heater box with a thermostat & NTC on the top. Check the continuity of the thermostat (the one with spade connectors). If that is O/C you found the problem. If it shows continuity you need to check the element & NTC. To do that the lid needs to come off to meter them from the small pcb under the lid. We can go through how you do that after you have checked the thermostat.

 

[shoz]

Thanks for this latest advice. It will take me some time to get the equipment but I will keep you informed.
What's an NTC by the way?

 

[zipper]

NTC = negative temperature coefficient (thermistor). When heated it's resistance drops.

 

[shoz]

Have just set my multimeter to resistance and attached it to either side of the thermostat. The buzzer sounded when touched. I presume this is correct?

 

[zipper]

Yes, the stat is ok. You can check the rear NTC by removing the lid (the dryer pcb is on the RH side just under it). The NTC plug has 2 thin black wires. If good expect around 14k Ω cold, then warm the NTC with your hand & you should see the resistance decrease (if ok). Alternatively skin the NTC wires at the back & measure there (re-insulate afterwards). Once that is ruled out the next suspect is the front NTC. To get at that the front needs to come off, 8 or so T20 screws around the door opening (might pay to remove the door first). A faulty front NTC is fairly common on these models but if no fault is found the problem is a defective heater pcb...or the heater pcb isn't getting control voltage from the main pcb.

 

[shoz]

ok, this sounds to be getting a bit more complex now. I should be ok with the rear connections, not sure about taking the door off though, just hope the rear one is faulty then I don't have to carry on.

 

[shoz]

right, got the lid off ok and the pcb at the front right hand side. I can't find anything that has 2 thin black wires attached. The only thing I can see is a connector with 4 thin black wires. Am I looking in the correct place? The picture shows the pcb and the 4 black wires on the extreme right of the picture.
Also, what does the NTC look like that I have to warm with my hand?

Untitled

• shoz
• 15 Jul 2012
• 1

STOP PRESS -
Things have changed slightly since putting the dryer back together. The dryer now seems to function if set to 15 mins cool air but every other program seems to result in an immediate continuous beep with a solid cool air light and a flashing 'hand iron' light.
Maybe I altered something removing the lid etc.

 

[zipper]

No that is the main pcb. Heater pcb is at the RH side at the back, just under the lid. The dryer will work on cool air, the problem is the heater circuit. Check the element & NTC resistance via the heater pcb. Remove the heater plug (2 thick wires) & the NTC plug (2 thin wires). Make sure the dryer is unplugged as the heater pcb is always live.