Miele w842 no power issue

[JoanC]

I have a European made washer w 842. Miele Canada has told me in the past they do not stock any parts for my machine because it was made in Europe

I am having an issue with power. The dryer plugs into the back of the washer and works so the unit is getting power, however none of the program lights on the washer come on.

The only service manual I found online is in German so I am not certain about all of the parts. It looks like there is a latch assemby and

The machine does not have lights if the door is open so I am suspecting either the door latch and/ sensor or perhaps something with the orange door release button itself.... stuck in the open door position. I had trouble last week when the orange door release button did not push in/work to add more clothes during a cycle. I slammed the door several times as others have recommended for a latch issue and nothing. I have not tried sticking a screw driver in to wiggle it around (assume that is what the door slamming is supposed to do) or spraying wd40 in case something is not moving.

I have turned the breaker on and off to no effect. It is a real work horse and I don't want to have to toss it.

Any suggestions?

 

[blup]

Don't know if this your exact model but googled this:

https://www.libble.eu/miele-w-842/online-manual-615093/

Blup

 

[JoanC]

Thanks Blup. I have that same user manual. The one I am looking for is the service manual which is mostly pictures with all of the parts numbered and then a reference listing of the part name and the Miele part number

 

[RichardMNZ]

I would look at the on/off door button. They can develop dry and broken solder joints. Have you opened one of these machines before?

 

[JoanC]

yes. but not entirely. I had a problem with the intake solenoid so had much of the back apart to check the water intake system. I have not removed the front panel before. I did wonder if it might be the buttons and not the latch itself but do not know how to test to rule out one or the other. Can you assist me please? or do you have a reference that you can direct me to?
Thanks Joan

 

[RichardMNZ]

So you opened the top to inspect the water intake.

Here is a link to a german website.
You can look at the pictures from the pdf on how to open.

The first image has the front of the machine and there is an arrow pointing to the drain pump. You must unclip the hose from the plastic door.

There is a small brass spring that keeps the front shut. If you scroll down you can see how it swings open.
You will need a T20 torx bit and a 10mm socket/spanner (I think from my poor memory)

https://forum.teamhack.de/filebase/download/18/?s=a3808050472cb3e00022819b1dcaeaac13f08e5f

Make sure you tuck the emergency door release (part 6) back in into the holder (part 9) when closing the machine.

There is this document too. W800/W900 machines without function and checking the buttons.

 

[RichardMNZ]

Oh before you take to it with tools does the door open button work?
Do you pull the emergency release and slam it a few times?

 

[JoanC]

Thank you Richard,
The orange door open button does not work. I had to pull the manual release in the small door at the bottom. I have slammed it numerous times, unplugged it, checked the breaker, left it unplugged in case it "resets" itself. I also wiggled a screw driver around in the door closure latch. Nothing. I know power is getting to the unit because the dryer plugs into the back of the washer and it works. So....I think it is either the door open button or the door latch sensor.
I watched a video on testing the door latch btu cannot find anything on the orange button, which someone said can be the problem as the weld gives way, just not sure how to fix that one as i don't know what it will look like. I was thinking of taking an air gun to clean the parts as several people seem to have success with wiping/cleaning dust of boards and electronics for their various other unrelated electrical problems.
Thanks for the reference sheet. I already watched a youtube video (in German of course) which showed the same but I was not sure if it was the same as my machine so your reference sheet is very helpful.
And thanks for the reminder, I already returned the emergency door release tool back in place. I also take pictures as Ii take it apart so I don't forget on the re-assembly.
Any more tips would be appreciated.

Joan

 

[RichardMNZ]

You're in Canada right? 120V?

 

[RichardMNZ]

After the door lock and power button (checking for cracked solder joints) I would look at where power comes into the machine.
There are 4 wires. Two lead to the heater relay and the other 2 lead to the power switch.

 

[JoanC]

Thank you Richard. Yes Canada. it is historically referred to as 110v but now anything which has been updated 120v. The machine is on a doubled up circuit ( 2x120=240v) on a 30 amp breaker. When my machine was brought over from Europe 10+ years ago someone converted the plug to a standard Canadian 220 (really 240 I guess) plug. The dryer then plugs into the back of the washer with the European shaped plug. Since you are telling me the wires separate then the fact that the dryer will work may be irrelevant to the rest of the machine working. I will be taking it apart and checking everything over the weekend. I was just going to be lazy and order the door interlock. Miele sent me the diagram but the part is over $150 so I will make sure that is the issue and the only problem. Do you know if the door lock mechanism for the 842 is the same as or interchangeable with the one used on other and/or newer models. It seems like there are lots of newer ( electrical displays etc versus mechanical knob operation) Miele's being junked or offered for parts. Other than additional plug ins for the lights, seems like the door locking part might be essentially the same

 

[RichardMNZ]

The lock is not interchangeable with newer models. The newer models have plastic locks of a different shape.
The older style are longer and slimmer.

There is a plug which has 3 wires, two dark brown and a lighter brown. (They are light cream but with dark or light brown markings up close)
When the door is shut there is conductivity between the two dark brown. The third is for the release.

 

[RichardMNZ]

If you remove it from the door (undo the torx screws), you can manually latch it.

At the back push the plastic piece and it will click (1).
The press the metal piece at the back and it will click too (2).

To release the latch you can pull the manual release (3).

When the latch is closed power can flow between 11-12 on the door release/power board

https://photos.app.goo.gl/cpneMEFcXyhgEoLZA

 

[JoanC]

Richard,
Thanks for your help. Your link with the pictures does not work so i cannot tell what you were trying to show me. I took tons of pictures of course so i could get the thing back together again.

You were right light wires with a brown line on each. I was able to test the continuity between the pins, which was fine and the active line between the door lock piece and where it attached to the "RAFI" board with the start button and door orange door release button. Also ok. Then I tested the little black piece off the live line on each end (I think 10 and 12. There might have been an 11 underneath too). Again ok.

I could not seem to get the buttons for the start and open door off the electronic "RAFI" board to to test to see if as you thought, it might be a broken solder joint, so I have not tested that as yet.

I pushed and tried to make sure all of the wire connectors that I could be wee properly secured. They all seemed to be push on fit but I could not get them loosened off any of the Boards. the only ones I could take off were the ones at the door interlock end.

I then took the door interlock off and took it apart. Other than getting my hands dirty, I am not sure I accomplished much except to be interested to see what an apparently simple mechanical thing it is and wonder how it can be worth $150. Three springs loading various levers, 2 plastic moving arms or gears (one for the manual door open pull) and then a little metal barrel/piston looking thing which fits over a plastic spring loaded flat piece which is maybe supposed to move when the door is locked in place.

I watched Russian (I think)video on how to fix one. Problem is their sensor is a copper lever which heats up and then a spring which if tight enough closes the circuit to tell everyone the door is locked down. He fixed it by stretching out the spring. The w842 door interlock looks entirely mechanical with a plastic spring loaded piece attached to a metal piston like piece which fits into a round tube with a metal end and wire going to the live prong (of the 3 prong connection) . I will be annoyed it it turns out to be as simple as the little plastic piece is not moving enough to push the piston in, but it does not seem to be able to move much.

So here is how I think it is supposed to work? Maybe you can help.
1. The piston slides in and out of a sleeve with a metal pad inside which I think attaches to a wire going to the live prong on the 3 plug prong ( which plugs at the other end to the start button Board).
2. When the door latch is engaged, I think it pushes on the flat spring loaded plastic piece which then (not sure which) pushes the piston in against the metal end of the sleeve (or maybe pulls it out of the sleeve, which does not seem right) thereby making (or breaking) an electrical connection to the live door lock sensor wire on the 3 prong connection.
3. Message goes along wire to RAFI board controlling start and open button

Two things which I could not get to work exactly as I think they are supposed to:
1. the plastic and metal pieces which you say "click" only did so when I had the door interlock apart and manually pushed on the latching mechanism, which seems to be different than when I push the door closed. The door seems to have some spring/movement to it when closed. Not sure if that makes a difference. I checked the rubber door gasket to make sure nothing was holding the door from closing all the way.
2. Also I could not get a connectivity beep between the inside metal end of the sleeve where I think the metal barre/piston like thing is supposed to touch to close the circuit (and tell everyone the door is closed) and the wires coming out of the sleeve to the live prong or anywhere in the wire to the prong. The wire looks clean and intact so wondering if there is something other than a conductivity test I can try.

I have uploaded a few pictures since a verbal description never seems to be as good.

 

[JoanC]

So it is the door lock for sure. I found several small plastic parts/levers which broke off and eventually fell to the floor. I have tried to jam the lock mechanism to make it think it is locked and now the door will not engage or stay shut. I hate to give up on it because it is such a [ain to get in and out of my basement but it is 20 years old.

My next effort is to see if there might be an after market knock off while I search for a replacement machine. Is there such a thing as a maker of replacement parts for Miele not made by and therefore cheaper than Miele?