Milky water spots on new floor

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29 Apr 2008
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Manchester
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Hi,
I Hope someone can help, I'm really frustrated and not sure what to do next.

We've just laid new iroko floorboards in our kitchen. We sanded as we'd been advised etc. We then spent 3 days applying 2 coats of Colron Wood Dye and then 3 coats of Roneal Diamond Hard Floor Varnish. Following instructions to the tee and allowing the relevant drying times in between coats etc.

We're now discovering that if we drop any water on the floor, even tiny little drops, it's leaving milky (opaque) marks that we can't get off. We are now left with a floor that's completely ruined.

I'm not sure what to do next because I don't know what's caused it. I think we're going to have to re-sand the whole floor which is going to be a mare as it's now got kitchen units on top including an island.

Has anyone any ideas? and if we do re-sand it what do we apply to protect the floor next time.

Sorry to ramble ... any help is appreciated. :(
 
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I am no proffessional when it comes to varnish but I think the problem is that the floor varnish that you used is a water based product and as soon as the water gets on it it causes a reaction I would personally sand it back down then stain again then apply yacht varnish thats only my opinion
 
OK, thanks for your advice, a bit annoying seeing as we were advised to use that type of varnish but I think you're right.
 
might be worth describing the problem to the manufacturr of the varnish
 
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We've spoken to the manufacturers and they're trying to say we've done something wrong in the way we've applied it, which we haven't.
 
please please dont put yacht varnish on a beautiful wood like iroko!
Who suggested using ronseal diamond varnish? Ask the manufacturer about using their varnish on iroko/teak because its a very oily timber and as a result both are notorious for taking much longer for finishes to dry.

Even going down the route of challanging ronseal, the best you'll get is a few tins of free varnish.

I hope this is engineered flooring suitable for kitchens??

PM Woodyoulike he may have some wisdom and at very least would recommend a better finish if you do have to resand.
 
r896neo you're right on the oily features of Iroco (and on the fact it's a beautiful wood species).

Question HandEj: why did you first use wood dye (from another brand I presume than the ultimate finish layer)?
 

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