Mira Sport Max. Low Flow Problem.

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I have a Mira Sport Max 10.8kw shower which is about 12 years old. It gets used briefly once a day so it has not exactly been flogged to death. I replaced the thermal cut-out switch a couple of years ago after an earlier fault. Recently the shower has started cutting out after a couple of minutes & showing the low flow light which eventually resets.

I've eliminated all the obvious problems. The water pressure is fine, no blockages to the hose or shower head & the inlet filter is as clean as a whistle.

The next most likely fault is the solenoid coil which I gather is a common problem with this model. I tested the solenoid with my multimeter & it reads at about 3.4 ohms which is okay however, this was before a cut out so I'm still treating it as the probable offender. I have a replacement solenoid although I'll need to dismantle the shower in order to fit it for which purpose I'll take the shower unit off the wall so I can work on it on the bench. It's possible that the whole Flow Valve Assembly is kaput although I'd rather just replace the solenoid for now on grounds of cost. The solenoid cost a tenner whereas the cheapest flow valve replacement I can find will set me back sixty odd quid.

It's less likely, but there's always the possibility that the heater tank is the source of the fault in which case I'm stymied since Mira have unhelpfully discontinued that particular part (1563.505) even though there must be plenty of these showers still in use. My question to any experts out there who perhaps fix up showers on a regular basis is, are any other Mira 10.8kw heater tanks compatible? I asked the Mira people this question but, perhaps unsurprisingly, they said no.
 
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How do you know the shower hose isn't the problem? Is it new
 
A solenoid isn't going to affect the water flow . A valve that isn't opening, might.

HOses twist up inside while looking fine on the outside.
Heat exchangers scale up, and can makle things overheat and switch off.
If you live in a hard water area, get some kettle descaler in there. How you do that "depends" of course. You'll probably have to take it down and mess with it in the kitchen sink, funnel one end. maybe a carrot stuffed up the other, or if solenoid valve stops the flow you'll need to go from both ends.. Fill it and leave it. Warmth speeds it up a lot. Refill with fresh descaler jizzm and see if it bubbles. If not, you're done.

If you have to replace the whole unit, get two. you'll be so glad you did when the next one packs up.
It's easy to think the flow is low on an electric shower - well it just IS, and it's worse in the winter.
If you do the sums...
inlet temperature w8°, s18°, 10.8kw...
Say you shower at 38°
WInter Litres per minute = 10.8 x 60s / ((38-8) x 4.2) = 5.14l/min
Summer l/min = 5.14/(38-18) x (38 -8 ) = 7.71l/min, ie 50% more in the summer.

Temps aren't as far apart as that but you get the idea.
Measure it, you might be surprised.
 
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Id be going for the cheapest quickest option first.

Replace the hose. If its old the rubber can collapse when hot water passes through.
 
Id be going for the cheapest quickest option first.

Replace the hose. If its old the rubber can collapse when hot water passes through.

Try the shower, without the head fitted, if no problem then it's the head restricting the outflow.
 
Try the shower, without the head fitted, if no problem then it's the head restricting the outflow.


But he said he has already discounted the head as its clear!

But by all means remove head and hose then try.
 
For evans sake. The chap said it's not the head. A simpleton can check it.

Time how long the shower takes to fill a bowl with head attached.
Remove head
Time how long the shower takes to fill a bowl with head removed.
Is there a significant difference?

Duh.
 

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