Need to cut the corners on skirting boards that are about 8-9 inches tall. I have several rooms that will need new skirts and a proposed extension in due course. Think that an electric saw would be the sensible option. What should i be looking for an can i get one for £100 or less.
Mitre saw for tall skirting boards
- Thread starter Mike-H
- Start date
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Oh dear. I will need one several times as I go through the house. Hire costs could outweigh initial saving.
Stupid question .... Can you do this with a smaller saw and flip the wood over. Or would starting with a smaller electric saw and finishing with hand saw work?
I have one of these.
http://www.powertoolworld.co.uk/cle...se-slide-compound-mitre-saw-216mm-1050w-.html
It has really nice mitre stops, very tight.
This will happily do the job.
http://www.powertoolworld.co.uk/cle...se-slide-compound-mitre-saw-216mm-1050w-.html
It has really nice mitre stops, very tight.
This will happily do the job.
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I bought one of those for £180 , lakedale power tools, though had to return it as the blade was set up out of line.
Also have a cheaper £90 cheapy[Macallister] from B&Q but motor is so rough it trips any rcb under 20amp.
Buy a handsaw for approx 4.00, a square for 5.00 and a pencil for 10p.
Saved yourself 90.90 or even 91.00 if you have got a spare pencil.
And if you keep f**king up, well you have got 90.00 spare to pay for new skirting and get your own skill level up with enough left over to buy a pint...beit from a can.
I just use my festool plunge saw and guide rail for anything over 180mm
My nobex champion mitre saw will cut up to 180mm and cost about £100
http://www.google.co.uk/products?rl...esult_group&ct=title&resnum=1&ved=0CDMQrQQwAA
Possibly the best mitre saw on the market and you can get metal cutting blades as well
My nobex champion mitre saw will cut up to 180mm and cost about £100
http://www.google.co.uk/products?rl...esult_group&ct=title&resnum=1&ved=0CDMQrQQwAA
Possibly the best mitre saw on the market and you can get metal cutting blades as well
who needs a square. decent saw, pencil and coping saw works wonders everytime
Buy a handsaw for approx 4.00, a square for 5.00 and a pencil for 10p.
Saved yourself 90.90 or even 91.00 if you have got a spare pencil.
And if you keep f**king up, well you have got 90.00 spare to pay for new skirting and get your own skill level up with enough left over to buy a pint...beit from a can.
Do it the old fashioned way.
Measure height of the moulded section ie the bit at the top with the nobbly bits. Lets say its 2 inches.
Get a 2ft section of 3 x 1 and using a sguare mark on top edge 2 opposite mitres marking down each side as a cutting guide. Then carefully cut down the marks until you have just passed the depth of the moulding (ie 2 inches) leaving the the rest intact. Next cut some strips of timber perhaps 20mm wide strips of the end of the 3x1. Pin/nail these strips on the top edge of the 3x1 being careful not to block the cuts you have made.
Get your skirting, clamp in bench or extra person to hold firmly and sit your hanging mitre block the top edge. You should be able to hold it in place but a quick clamp etc will hold it if your not confident.
Now placing your saw in the mitre slot guides you cut and saw away until you reach the bottom of your mitred cuts in the block.
You will now have the difficult part cut through at a perfect mitre, Remove your guide and use the square to pencil on the line that has been created by the saw cut on the non moulded part of skirting.
Hold/clamp and carefully saw down your pencil line, your saw will be set at the right angle due to using mitre block. Sounds scary cutting free hand but take your time and let saw do the work.
As long as you get your cut right on the face of the skirting you can adjust the back with a plane or rasp etc. Job done.
Internal mitres for scribing are even easier. Cut through moulding with block then a staight cut up to this freehand. Cut the moulded section out in the normal way.
Not as gucci as having a 300 quid sliding bevel but joiners have been using this method for only the last few hundred years or so.
it takes a bit of practice but as stated you have 300 quid of extra skirting to play with to get it right.
Measure height of the moulded section ie the bit at the top with the nobbly bits. Lets say its 2 inches.
Get a 2ft section of 3 x 1 and using a sguare mark on top edge 2 opposite mitres marking down each side as a cutting guide. Then carefully cut down the marks until you have just passed the depth of the moulding (ie 2 inches) leaving the the rest intact. Next cut some strips of timber perhaps 20mm wide strips of the end of the 3x1. Pin/nail these strips on the top edge of the 3x1 being careful not to block the cuts you have made.
Get your skirting, clamp in bench or extra person to hold firmly and sit your hanging mitre block the top edge. You should be able to hold it in place but a quick clamp etc will hold it if your not confident.
Now placing your saw in the mitre slot guides you cut and saw away until you reach the bottom of your mitred cuts in the block.
You will now have the difficult part cut through at a perfect mitre, Remove your guide and use the square to pencil on the line that has been created by the saw cut on the non moulded part of skirting.
Hold/clamp and carefully saw down your pencil line, your saw will be set at the right angle due to using mitre block. Sounds scary cutting free hand but take your time and let saw do the work.
As long as you get your cut right on the face of the skirting you can adjust the back with a plane or rasp etc. Job done.
Internal mitres for scribing are even easier. Cut through moulding with block then a staight cut up to this freehand. Cut the moulded section out in the normal way.
Not as gucci as having a 300 quid sliding bevel but joiners have been using this method for only the last few hundred years or so.
it takes a bit of practice but as stated you have 300 quid of extra skirting to play with to get it right.
The advantge of a saw on a guide rail is that if the skirting has many profiles you can cut from above with out the base of the saw dropping off into the profile.
i guess you could cut from the underside using a stright edge but the really tall skirtings are normally cupped. A sit on guide rail will compensate for this.
Hope this makes sense
not neccesarily 45 degrees anyway depends on the room and previous workmanship i find the angle, split it then do it old school like i said above unless its small skirts then slidemitre saw is the way forward i was only commentin on skirt that dont fit in my saw lol
lol all good ways but i prefer mine, atleast you get a pint at the end of it
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