Mitre Saws

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Hello,

After some very hard looking around I have come to the decision that my mitre saw choice is between three saws. I very much appreciated everyone's input on the previous post but since then I have been able to expand my budget. What would people suggest out of the following three:

Bosch GCM 350-254: Link Here

Bosch GCM 12 GDL: Link Here

Bosch GCM 12 SDE: Link Here

All comments are welcome as I am having a hard time deciding between them so all help is appreciated.

Thanks

James
 
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Depending on what you're doing and the level of portability you need, if I had the budget I'd get the 12 GDL.

Such a nice smooth action and I did want one myself before finding a DeWalt DWS780 at the right money .
 
Suggest you buy a bullworker if you buy the glide (GDL).....

Ask yourself a question, though, "Why do I need a 12in saw at all?" (and perhaps "How will I get this in the van?" and "What will the blades cost me?" - even a 10in sw takes up a lot of room in a Berlingo). Most joiners working full time in construction don't need one and many get by quite happily with a 8in/216mm machine. The only times I've ever needed 12in saws is when dealing with massive cornice mouldings and coffered ceiling timbers on listed building renovations which are hardly regular tasks
 
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Had a close up on this saw yesterday.....

Very impressive innovation. The glide runs super smooth. Much smoother than the latest dewalts.
 
Had a close up on this saw yesterday.....

Very impressive innovation. The glide runs super smooth. Much smoother than the latest dewalts.

Nightmare to keep square I've heard a lot of.
 
Nightmare to keep square I've heard a lot of.

Their is talk about that over on the FOG. The issue is that the blade isn't parallel to the rails. And I would have thought that's a factory machining issue.
Which they need to resolve.

The OP gives a good review here..
http://festoolownersgroup.com/other-tools-accessories/makita-ls1019l-miter-saw-mini-review/



Others not so good. According to some it can be adjusted on part 169. However if its not an intended Makita calibration point then the saw is flawed.
If you twist those rails then it will affect the glide bearings.


Some guys are saying place a square against the fence to test for this issue.
However the blade and rail alignment could be 100 percent accurate and the fence and detent notches misaligned thus showing an inaccuracy which is not related to blade/rail alignment.
glass1 gives a good method on how to test for misalignment. Which is relevant to all scms's.
With his method the error is x by 2.
An accurate measurement with a dial gauge between the front and back of the blade/rail travel distance would work also.
 
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