Mixer tap conundrum

Trap out, then use a mono bloc box spanner - they usually come in 3's/5's, usually one will fit inside another giving you a long extension box spanner to get over the nut and the other end is below the bottom of the basin.
 
Well... I'm going to dig the endoscope out later and hopefully get a proper pic, but it feels like the nut is well over an inch in diameter, and the threaded bit it tightens onto seems split into two halves, if that makes any sense... :confused:
 
OK. Now this is a SHAYTE photograph (does this forum allow swearing…?). Note to self – next time you buy an endoscope, spend the bit extra and get one which isn't completely useless.

Anyway, hopefully you can see that the big (1¼”? 1½”?) nut seems to screw onto a splayed fitting, with the two fine bore inlet pipes going up the middle… have I, as usual, ended up with a weirdo?

If so, if I ever DO get it out, is a new mixer likely to fit in the hole?

Ta :(

splay.jpg
 
That's going to be fun.
If you get pipes and plug couplings or of the way, you could get the end of basin wrench over the big nut and then rotate the tap from above.
A load of WD40 won't hurt.
If it won't budge then it might be a basin removal job.

The new tap is likely to have a small nut which secures the tap with a length of stud, and will fit in that hole.
 
They more than likely fitted the tap to the sink before fitting the sink to the wall!.

I have separate hot and cold basin taps which was a godsend when I had to replace them earlier this year.

If you can get something on the nut under the sink you may be able to turn the tap body to beak it loose.
 
Not worth the effort by the looks of it, if it's a big nut then it's a basin off job, never going to get anything of significance up behind that basin to grab that methinks.

Not what I want to hear Rab, but my little voice inside tells me you're right :mad::mad::mad:
 
OK, current thinking is to try and remove the cupboard unit, fit the new mixer and waste, then put it all back. For me, easier said than done… can’t see screws attaching it to the wall or anything. But I’ll get to the bottom (or back) of it eventually.

Regarding the plumbing, two things I need to know I suppose:

1. How to isolate the two inlet pipes. Picture of one below – there’s the fine bore copper coming down from the mixer, then some kind of adapter, then plastic pipe, then another adapter, then ½” copper. What would be the easiest way for me to cut and isolate these pipes?

2. Assuming I can get it all apart, and fit a new mixer etc, I’ll choose one which comes with flexible pipes attached. What would be the best way to connect them up to what I have here? It’s about 18” (hard to measure accurately) from the mixer down to the orange adapter.

Thanks gurus :notworthy:


20190809_101649.jpg
20190809_101649.jpg
 
If it were me:
0. Water off! Both H & C.
1. Remove everything between the tap and the orange connectors, including the orange connectors. You now have two 15mm pipe stubs.
2. Onto each of these stubs, fix a compression isolating valve.

You can now turn your water back on and relax if there are no leaks.

3. Short length of 15mm copper pipe from the top of each valve, cut to meet up with the flexible tap tails.

If the tails end with a 15mm compression fitting, then this just connects to your new pipe.

If the tail ends with a 1/2" BSP nut & washer, use a 15mm straight compression or push fit (or solder!) to attach a tap tail connector to the 15mm pipe (so that the rubber washer is not crushed), and then you can attach the tap tail to that.
 
Last edited:
If it were me:
0. Water off! Both H & C.
1. Remove everything between the tap and the orange connectors, including the orange connectors. You now have two 15mm pipe stubs.
2. Onto each of these stubs, fix a compression isolating valve.

You can now turn your water back on and relax if there are no leaks.

3. Short length of 15mm copper pipe from the top of each valve, cut to meet up with the flexible tap tails.

If the tails end with a 15mm compression fitting, then this just connects to your new pipe.

If the tail ends with a 1/2" BSP nut & washer, use a 15mm straight compression or push fit (or solder!) to attach a tap tail connector to the 15mm pipe (so that the rubber washer is not crushed), and then you can attach the tap tail to that.

Thanks, that's just the sort fo simple explanation I needed :D

I'll report back. Errmmm... have you any sandbags...?
 
Sorry, another question... not sure about clicker vs pop-up waste.

I get that the clicker type is going to be easy to install, and that’s attractive… but maybe it’s just me, but I don’t really fancy plunging my hand into the dirty water full of beard trimmings etc after I shave, every time I want to empty the sink…

Are the pop-up types a real pain to install?
 

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