Mixture of solid & veneered wood

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Hi,
I want to build some units into the alcove in my living room. To keep the cost down, i'm trying to source a mixture of solid and veneered wood which are the same in looks. I'd like to use veneered stuff obviouslt for the bits which aren't so noticeable, and solid wood for the unit doors, shelving etc. I can find both veneered and solid timber from different companies, but would like to purchase from the same company so the veneer would look like the solid wood. I'm afraid if I buy from different companies they may not match. Can anyone advise where I can buy both types of wood in either sapele, iroka or oak?
Many thanks in advanced if anyone can point me in the right direction.
Kind Regards,
datadiyer.
 
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No reason why they will match from one or many suppliers, timber being a natural material.
 
To match the veneer you will need to know what cut the veneeris flat,rotary cutetc..... and country of origin ,American, English,japanese etc,,,and how seasoned kiln, steamed etc,,,,,but if its not seen whats the fuss
 
Thanks Harbourwoodwork,
It souns a bit of a trek trying to find all the attributes you mention. I think i'll just do it all in laminate. I've just ordered a few sample of Veneered sheets. Just glue them to some MDF or chipboard then I suppose. Is it best to bond it to MDF, Chipboard, Plywood or anything else?

Kind Regards,
Datadiyer
 
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Forgot to say,

Regarding how important it is, eg. I would like the side wall of the alcove to have wood attached to it. It seems such an overkill lining the wall with a 38mm/40mm thick oak worktop (and expensive)

Kind Regards,
Datadiyer
 
I don't totaly get your drift Data, but your design sound over complicated,just to clear things up veneered board usually comes in 6,10,12,15, 18mm MDF 8x4 sheets ,with a choice of veneers and cuts each side as mentioned,its also possible to buy paper backed veneer in 8x4 sheets,which is easy to apply ,same as formica fixing,with interesting results on bendy ply,just a few ideas
 
Hi Harbourwoodwork,

As you can tell, i'm a bit of a novice here. I'm quite confident with the actual constuction of the units, but not so regarding the choice of wood. To be honest, I didn't realise until last night you can buy pre-laminated MDF in all sorts of styles, even up to 26mm thick, which is what I was looking for, some chunky looking wood for my units. I thought i'd have to buy the veneer and stick it to the MDF/Plywood myself. Much easier if I just buy the pre-laminated as you mention.
Regards,
Data.
 
I didn't realise until last night you can buy pre-laminated MDF in all sorts of styles, even up to 26mm thick, which is what I was looking for, some chunky looking wood for my units. I thought i'd have to buy the veneer and stick it to the MDF/Plywood myself. Much easier if I just buy the pre-laminated as you mention.
You may be able to but it, but the choice of veneers is severly limited. For chunky just remember it is possible to "double-up" by making a sandwich such as 2 x 18mm veneered MDF (to get 36mm), or a 12mm and an 18mm (30mm) or even something like 2 x 18mm veneered with a 12mm plain MDF in the middle (48mm thick). Any raw edges can then be covered with solid wood lipping
 
why not just buy veneered mdf and lip it where needed to cover up the raw edges,that way you will have matching colour etc across your whole project.
 
Thanks for your advice guys,
Change of plan (again). Just found a company (smi-hardwoods.com) that sells solid European oak furniture panels which are Full Stave, they come in thicknesses of 9mm - 40mm. This is perfect for what I needed, can't beleive there's not many suppliers with solid wood panel in the thicknesses I mention, also the sheet sizes which are 600mm wide and between 1200mm - 2500mm long. Already sent for my sample, looks good from the pics on their website anyway. Also a company (slhardwoods.co.uk) sell oak furniture panels from 9mm - 40mm thick and 600mm-915mm wide. I think i've managed to add a rough design of what i'm trying to do.
Cheers,
Datadiyer.
View media item 55460
 
Hi Harbourwoodwork,

Yeah, your right there, I may get a proper chippy in for the tricky stuff, i'll have a little practise bash myself first though,lol.
cheers.
 
What you really want for a job like this with through dovetails is "decorative" dovetails with unequal spaces between the tails and pins, and possibly graduated tail size as well to make a feature out of the joint. I doubt if you'll find that many people who will be able (or willing) to do that work for you. Besides marking out it means either a lot of hand work, hard work too in oak, or having a jig like the Leigh jig that can cut them with a router. Most joinery places will have a dovetail machine that will cut equal tails and pins, but while they make a mechanically sound joint they don't look all that good IMO.
 
Hi Dave54,
Thanks for your reply. However, the last time I did a dovetail joint was 22 years ago at school woodwork, lol. As for 'decorative' dovetail joints, that would be on another planet when it comes to my expertise. To be honest, I was thinking of locking cam bolts, as an amateur, as long as it fits tight enough.
Kind regards,
Datadiyer
 
What you really want for a job like this with through dovetails is "decorative" dovetails with unequal spaces between the tails and pins, and possibly graduated tail size as well to make a feature out of the joint. I doubt if you'll find that many people who will be able (or willing) to do that work for you. Besides marking out it means either a lot of hand work, hard work too in oak, or having a jig like the Leigh jig that can cut them with a router. Most joinery places will have a dovetail machine that will cut equal tails and pins, but while they make a mechanically sound joint they don't look all that good IMO.

I agree dave hand cut dovetails are a class act ,when youv'e got a few under your belt its probably quite a confidence booster
 

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