modena 102

[mal165]

Hi, have just returned after the long weekend. pressure on my boiler has been dropping slowly for some time so i checked on returning pressure was around 1 Bar. increase this slightly (1.5) but on checking it would seem that I musn't have closed the feed valve fully( found this out later) heating came on then stopped, checked gauge around 3 Bar and green Led (5) was on permanently ( according to manual this permanent light indicates "electric power supply", whatever that means!), reduced pressure by bleeding a rad, but CH would not come on. DHW supply is working as per normal. Tried resetting and switching off. No sign of water having been discharged from pressure relief pipe outside.
Bank holidays...who'd have them . help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
KM

 

[Agile]

I suspect that it is a coincidental boiler fault.

On that make NTC sensors often fail.

If you can you could measure them with the boiler totally cold.

Or call a competent boiler engineer.

Tony

 

[mal165]

Hi Tony. Thanks for the reply NTC stands for ?. Big wory is that the PCB has gone ...again.
regards

 

[Agile]

NTC = Negative Temperature Coeficient

 

[mal165]

Hi again, I realised what NTC was just after I posted. I have changed the CH thermister ( had one from a previous fault. Was draing the system down to change this and the boiler fired up. I had previously reverted the system back to using the onboard clock and eventually by passed this also. When the boiler worked I thought alls well and reconnected the remote programmer and thermostat ( wireless). No CH. Current state is that if i switch the system on and off from the boiler control panel the fan and pump will run but the ignitor and boiler do nothing, the radiator led doesn't light at this point but does flash as per normal when DHW is switched off. Have gone through the ferroli checklists but to no avail. Have tried changing over the DHW and CH thermister but this made no difference. Any ideas?

 

[bellairaphon]

pull one of the caps out the front n see if it fires up then. more than likely the fan venturi dont cost much and simple enough to change remove the case and remove the fan look inside and you'll see the venturi. more than likely will crumble in your hand. to fit the new one place the new venturi in place then use a small self tapping screw and screw in to secure it. it can only be screwed in one port.

 

[mal165]

Hi, thanks for the reply. Did as you said and sadly no response. I can get the system to respond by flicking the on/off knob back and forward ( reset gets no response) to make the fan and pump come on, sometimes withthe rad LED flashing ( as if hot water had been called) or without the LED lighting at all. Boiler doesn't fire though. DHW is still ok. Any further suggestions welcomed. thanks again
kellym

 

[mal165]

oop....s should point out I did not remove the cover to examine the venturi since the system didn't fire up. with the plug removed. Will have alook later to-day if you think it is worthwhile doing.

 

[DP]

If you are getting HW, that proves venturi to be in order.

Might be prudent to get a heating engineer (who knows what he is doing) to repair the boiler. In the long run boiler will be repaired with no needless parts changed.

Hint. If he is knowledgeable, he will be able to test (with meter and other means) and locate the defect. He will also not be reluctant to explain to you why the boiler is not working.

 

[mal165]

Hi there, thanks for the reply. Got it sorted. Had been by-passing external controls after the Ferrolli programmer/clock. Linked on pcb before this an up it fired. Looks like the switch in the programmer was open although display said it was calling, should have realised this sooner since I've already had a Ferroli timer go phut.
thanks for all your advice.