moto valves

Softus said:
All assumptions are potentially wrong!

Firstly, you should be able to control the boiler and pump by turning the cylinder stat up and down. Can you?

Secondly, if you operate the CH then you should see/hear/feel the MZV operating. Do you?

It's still possible that the MZV valve is stuck and/or blocked. If you remove the powerhead completely (isolate electrically first), then the spindle (which has two flats on it) should turn freely. Does it?
Hi Softus. When i rise the temperature of Cylinder stat, boiler and pump operate but no HW. When i call 4 CH , i hear a grinding noise as if the MZV were struggling to open, the lever does not budge but i do have CH.Regarding the free movement of spindle, i can not tell since i have not checked it.
 
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dotto said:
When i call 4 CH , i hear a grinding noise as if the MZV were struggling to open, the lever does not budge but i do have CH.Regarding the free movement of spindle, i can not tell since i have not checked it.
May I suggest, strongly, that you do check it, since it's sounding to me as though you have a broken actuator and/or a stuck valve.
 
Softus said:
dotto said:
When i call 4 CH , i hear a grinding noise as if the MZV were struggling to open, the lever does not budge but i do have CH.Regarding the free movement of spindle, i can not tell since i have not checked it.
May I suggest, strongly, that you do check it, since it's sounding to me as though you have a broken actuator and/or a stuck valve.
Thank u all 4 your pieces of advice.Softus I'll check on that and thank u
 
Lol this is getting exciting, we are so close to finding out the initial problem.
 
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ollski said:
Lol this is getting exciting, we are so close to finding out the initial problem.
:) Tell me about it!

We (i.e. you) have been at this for 48 hours, and we're only just at the second stage of the basic fault-finding process :eek:
 
Softus said:
ollski said:
Lol this is getting exciting, we are so close to finding out the initial problem.
:) Tell me about it!

We (i.e. you) have been at this for 48 hours, and we're only just at the second stage of the basic fault-finding process :eek:
Hi Softus. I removed the power head and the spindle moves freely. How can i check if the actuator is working??
 
Leave the powerhead off (but be careful not to touch anything that might be live - you could replace the cover for example), and then operate your heating controls.

See whether or not the actuator 'slot' turns - if it just makes a grunging noise and doesn't move then I'd replace the powerhead. If it makes no noise at all then you could replace just the motor, but personally I'd replace the powerhead.
 
Softus said:
Leave the powerhead off (but be careful not to touch anything that might be live - you could replace the cover for example), and then operate your heating controls.

See whether or not the actuator 'slot' turns - if it just makes a grunging noise and doesn't move then I'd replace the powerhead. If it makes no noise at all then you could replace just the motor, but personally I'd replace the powerhead.
When you say the actuator slot, do you refer to the lever?
 
dotto said:
When you say the actuator slot, do you refer to the lever?
I'm starting to struggle to believe that this isn't a wind-up, but I'll give the benefit of the doubt (without meaning to be condescending).

The lever does of course move within a slot, but the slot I was referring to is the slotted hole that accepts the flat part of the valve spindle. The spindle rotates, whereas the lever doesn't rotate.

If I had a picture I'd post one, but I don't, so I can't.
 
Softus said:
dotto said:
When you say the actuator slot, do you refer to the lever?
I'm starting to struggle to believe that this isn't a wind-up, but I'll give the benefit of the doubt (without meaning to be condescending).

The lever does of course move within a slot, but the slot I was referring to is the slotted hole that accepts the flat part of the valve spindle. The spindle rotates, whereas the lever doesn't rotate.

If I had a picture I'd post one, but I don't, so I can't.
Softus, thanks 4 your patience. The actuator slot is not moving. I'll go and buy a new powerhead. Thanks again to you and to the others that contributed to this thread
 
This is getting silly isn't it.

I can see your simple test going wrong though Softus. If you operate a powerhead when it isn't on the valve, the bits don't sit in the right places so the gear teeth slip and you DO get a grungy noise! And the slot might not move!!
Dotto - just see if the motor turns!

You will probably have trouble getting the actuator on and off the valve even with the screws completely undone. If you operate the lever (against the spring) it'll release, and get into place, more easily.
When replacing the actuator, first get the shaft in the right place for the actuator slot to go on .
 
ChrisR said:
I can see your simple test going wrong though Softus. If you operate a powerhead when it isn't on the valve, the bits don't sit in the right places so the gear teeth slip and you DO get a grungy noise! And the slot might not move!!
This has never happened to me, but I bow, most sincerely, to your greater experience and wisdom.

ChrisR said:
Dotto - just see if the motor turns!
I believe that we know that it turns, because the dotto reported a grungy noise before removing the powerhead.

ChrisR said:
You will probably have trouble getting the actuator on and off the valve even with the screws completely undone. If you operate the lever (against the spring) it'll release, and get into place, more easily.
When replacing the actuator, first get the shaft in the right place for the actuator slot to go on .
Admirable attention to detail ChrisR, as ever. :)
 
ChrisR said:
This is getting silly isn't it.

I can see your simple test going wrong though Softus. If you operate a powerhead when it isn't on the valve, the bits don't sit in the right places so the gear teeth slip and you DO get a grungy noise! And the slot might not move!!
Dotto - just see if the motor turns!

You will probably have trouble getting the actuator on and off the valve even with the screws completely undone. If you operate the lever (against the spring) it'll release, and get into place, more easily.
When replacing the actuator, first get the shaft in the right place for the actuator slot to go on .
Thanks ChrisR
 
Sorry girls, fasthosts was sabotaged yesterday

... and those with a clue seem to have answered
 

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