Motorised valve replacement

no the teeth on rack wear out or break, the microswitches can stick the plastic leavers can snap . there is several things that can go up with a head other than just the motor

Exactly the point I was making, the mechanism is under considerable stress.
 
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Exactly the point I was making, the mechanism is under considerable stress.
considerable stress my ar5e you can see the size of the springs which you clearly have no clue how big they actually are .
no they are made out of shyte materials now in the past a honeywell valve would never have teeth worn or broke , explain how the springs cause a micro switch to stick and how plastic components break by people being heavy handed .
 
considerable stress my ar5e you can see the size of the springs which you clearly have no clue how big they actually are .
no they are made out of shyte materials now in the past a honeywell valve would never have teeth worn or broke , explain how the springs cause a micro switch to stick and how plastic components break by people being heavy handed .

Fond of your ar5e! I repeat, the whole mechanisms are under considerable stress, as you admit above twice, they are poorly made from rubbish materials. For the past 40 years, I have had an almost annual job of replacing or repairing our own valve actuators. Such was their unreliability, I had in mind to design something more robust myself, until I discovered MOMO actuators as a possibly more robust replacement for the spring return units - which is similar to what I had in mind to devise. Since then, zero failures - but let's see how long it lasts. I have a spare MOMO ready to put in, should it fail.

No springs in the MOMO, no motor powered up and stalled, none of the massive stress and extra heat generated. They just move the valve to position and stop.
 
Fond of your ar5e! I repeat, the whole mechanisms are under considerable stress, as you admit above twice, they are poorly made from rubbish materials. For the past 40 years, I have had an almost annual job of replacing or repairing our own valve actuators. Such was their unreliability, I had in mind to design something more robust myself, until I discovered MOMO actuators as a possibly more robust replacement for the spring return units - which is similar to what I had in mind to devise. Since then, zero failures - but let's see how long it lasts. I have a spare MOMO ready to put in, should it fail.

No springs in the MOMO, no motor powered up and stalled, none of the massive stress and extra heat generated. They just move the valve to position and stop.
having to fix a motorised valve yearly for 40 years , comedy gold .
Discovered momo valves you mean the valve that has been out for over 50 years
 
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I had never come across them, never heard of them.
and you had the cheek to ask me if i had ever seen in a motorised valve , you got a pic of that big massive spring yet .
and there is a reason why spring return valves are fitted now as opposed to momo but i will leave you to find out for yourself why
 
and you had the cheek to ask me if i had ever seen in a motorised valve , you got a pic of that big massive spring yet .
and there is a reason why spring return valves are fitted now as opposed to momo but i will leave you to find out for yourself why

I am already aware thank you - the reason begins 'defaults to.......'
 
no the teeth on rack wear out or break, the microswitches can stick the plastic leavers can snap . there is several things that can go up with a head other than just the motor

Ah yea, the plastic is **** in them.
I've plastic corrosion in all of mine (Toy Story ftw) and broken levers, casings, etc but the inners are so far ok.
Myson valves.
 
Hi again. Thanks for the info. Just to update, I have included a few photos. The actuator is the problem. When we arrive in the apartment I put the Horstmann time clock to 24HRS, the boiler fires up and usually the radiators stay cold until I move the lever on the Danfoss HPA2 actuator to manual and the hot water eventually makes its way around the radiators. I removed the actuator and checked the valve underneath and the valve can be opened & closed easily with my finger & thumb. The actuator itself can get quite warm when getting the signal from the thermostat to open but it isn't opening. I have bought a new actuator which i intend to fit at Easter with the help of my wife's uncle who is a qualified electrician. I'm wondering should i replace the thermostat as well. The current one is an IMIT one (see pic). It's wired as per the 3rd pic. Going from left to right is 1,3,2,4. The signal from the time clock comes in to 2. If the temp is below set point, 1 becomes live and send signal to Danfoss actuator which sometimes only opens less than half way and radiators stay cold.
When i search for an IMIT stat they only seem to be available from Germany. I saw an ESI one which looks very similar so can anyone recommend a suitable replacement? I would like one which would be a straightforward replacement if possible. BTW, only the lives and an Earths seem to be connected. Is this right? Wiring details included.Like i say my wife's uncle should know but I don't want to be wasting his time with a stat that's completely wrong. Thanks in advance.
 

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If the wall stat clicks cleanly, when adjusted from minimum to maximum - at approximately the correct temperature - then it is likely absolutely fine. Therefore no good reason to change it.

My apologies for the previous poor signal to noise level.
 
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Yes it does click audibly when adjusted from min to max so probably more hassle than it's worth to change it. Just wondering. Cheers Harry.
 

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