Mountfield 1636H no drive

Joined
28 Mar 2023
Messages
7
Reaction score
1
Country
United Kingdom
Hi, Looking for any help with my Mountfield ride on 1636H mower with a hydrostatic automatic drive. For no reason it just stopped moving. Engine runs fine, but no drive when I push the pedal. I checked if there was fluid in the Hydrostatic unit at the back, as previously this was empty and it stopped moving then too, but that is all fine. Any ideas appreciated. Cheers
 
Sponsored Links
Is the drive belt from the engine to the transmission in good order - is it actually spinning the pulley on the top?
Next, is the engagement lever in the drive position - move it a few times.
The oil level shouldn’t change on these - unless there’s a leak! There are few parts available for tufftorq transmissions.
See that the rod link from the pedal to the transmission hasn’t come off somehow.
John
 
Sponsored Links
Is the drive belt from the engine to the transmission in good order - is it actually spinning the pulley on the top?
Next, is the engagement lever in the drive position - move it a few times.
The oil level shouldn’t change on these - unless there’s a leak! There are few parts available for tufftorq transmissions.
See that the rod link from the pedal to the transmission hasn’t come off somehow.
John
Hi Belt is recently new , pully is spinning & ive moved the lever a few times as that was my first thought. will check rod link . cheers John
 
If the transmission has had the oil drained or the level is seriously low then it may need bleeding, as conny suggests.
This is done by removing a plug on the top of the transmission.
Haphazardly removing bolts though can end in tears!
Smaller transmissions such as the K46 are self bleeding.
I recommend you look at the tufftorq website and identify your transmission first -and bleeding details are also there.
As for oil, use a fully synthetic 5w-30.
Let us know how you get on!
John
 
If the transmission has had the oil drained or the level is seriously low then it may need bleeding, as conny suggests.
This is done by removing a plug on the top of the transmission.
Haphazardly removing bolts though can end in tears!
Smaller transmissions such as the K46 are self bleeding.
I recommend you look at the tufftorq website and identify your transmission first -and bleeding details are also there.
As for oil, use a fully synthetic 5w-30.
Let us know how you get on!
John
Excellent thanks John , will do. Will be the weekend now.
 
I think yours will be the K46S transmission, and you should find a stuck on label (ridiculous, I know) with a bar code and other I.D's on the underside - usually on the axle tube somewhere.
John :)
 
I think yours will be the K46S transmission, and you should find a stuck on label (ridiculous, I know) with a bar code and other I.D's on the underside - usually on the axle tube somewhere.
John :)
Update John, the drive belt had jumped off one of the side "guide" wheels / rollers. Im not sure why it jumped off, but i will keep an eye on it. This meant the tension was lost & it wasnt turning the drive unit/fan. Thanks for mentioning the fan turning at the back, as whilst the belt was new, i totally forgot the fan / pully had to be running at all times. Many thanks for your help. I was so convinced it was the actual transmission unit, that i missed the basics. cheers
 
Saved yourself a fortune, bud!
If those guide wheels are green, the bearing inside isn’t replaceable but the complete pulley is easy to fit - cheap enough for less than a tenner.
GHS Ltd can supply.
John
 
Saved yourself a fortune, bud!
If those guide wheels are green, the bearing inside isn’t replaceable but the complete pulley is easy to fit - cheap enough for less than a tenner.
GHS Ltd can supply.
John
Yes they are green, one is really noisy so I will replace them. Thanks for the advice, you know your stuff. Have you come access a starting issue with them, as sometimes it turns over but doesn't fire and it seems as though it only fires as I turn off the ignition. I'm thinking it's dodgy ignition switch. Cheers Charlie
 
Voila!
Unfortunately, no way of getting into these to replace the bearing alone.......unlike the other pulleys on these machines.
Do watch for the bracket orientation as you are working under the machine - it's dead easy to let it face the wrong way!
As for the starting, the spark at the plug is produced by the magneto underneath the engine flywheel, and the faster it spins, the better the spark. The machine battery is only used to operate the starter motor and lights etc.
The ignition switch only controls the starter and the engine cut off - that's a black wire that exits the engine, and if grounded the engine stops.
Now then - if the battery is slightly below par, maybe the engine isn't spinning as fast as it might, but by releasing the ignition key the engine gets that slight impetus more to fire it into life....the starter is in effect, slowing the engine down! That's my theory anyway, which may be nonsense but my machine did the same. Looking at the price of a new battery though, I'd be inclined to put up with it!
As I said, only my theory.

The only issues I have with these machines is grass packing around the cylinder fins at the bottom of the engine cover, and the rocker drive pedal is hopeless to grease without removing the grass chute...other than that, with care they go on a long time but do keep the transmission oil visible in the reservoir.
Regards
John :)
 
Voila!
Unfortunately, no way of getting into these to replace the bearing alone.......unlike the other pulleys on these machines.
Do watch for the bracket orientation as you are working under the machine - it's dead easy to let it face the wrong way!
As for the starting, the spark at the plug is produced by the magneto underneath the engine flywheel, and the faster it spins, the better the spark. The machine battery is only used to operate the starter motor and lights etc.
The ignition switch only controls the starter and the engine cut off - that's a black wire that exits the engine, and if grounded the engine stops.
Now then - if the battery is slightly below par, maybe the engine isn't spinning as fast as it might, but by releasing the ignition key the engine gets that slight impetus more to fire it into life....the starter is in effect, slowing the engine down! That's my theory anyway, which may be nonsense but my machine did the same. Looking at the price of a new battery though, I'd be inclined to put up with it!
As I said, only my theory.

The only issues I have with these machines is grass packing around the cylinder fins at the bottom of the engine cover, and the rocker drive pedal is hopeless to grease without removing the grass chute...other than that, with care they go on a long time but do keep the transmission oil visible in the reservoir.
Regards
John :)
That makes perfect sense John. I have already replaced the starter solenoid as it seems to click easily when battery is low. It's actually a new battery but may need a charge as its stood a while.
Possibly the starter on its way out and not quite turning it fast enough.

Thanks for all your help. Top man.

If I have any more issues be sure I will be messaging you :)

Cheers
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top