Mountfield 500 clutch doesn't work since drive belt change

[edtwozeronine]

I'm wondering if anyone has any advice on this as I have a suspicion that the new drive belt might be too short and thus is preventing the travel of the clutch pedal.

This is a ride-on mower and since changing the drive belt the clutch doesn't travel up and down with a sort of springy action and therefore can't be pressed with my right foot because it is permanently stuck in the down position.

Any help with this issue greatly appreciated.

 

[jj4091]

Look for a parts diagram for your particular model number and check you have assembled it properly. Perhaps a spring has flown off

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[Burnerman]

I can't find any cross reference to this model - unless it's a 5500?
If any guide pulleys are flat, they run on the back of the belt, any pulleys with a vee and the belt vee mates with that.
See if you can find an exploded diagram anywhere?
John

 

[edtwozeronine]

I have exploded diagrams from the Mountfield website but bought the parts from eBay, the cutting deck drive belt went on OK so I bought from the same supplier but this time ordered a drive belt. I have print outs from a PDF document I used to have, these show the correct route for the drive belts. The model is from 2011 so it's not brand-new but has been working fine up until I got annoyed at the drive belt falling off the clutch pulley, (that's what I'm calling it, I'm not a mechanic) so I thought a genius move would be to replace the drive belt!

This is probably it's modern day equivalent

Two spinning blades mounted underneath a sort of mini-tractor, pretty awesome for doing my Aunties garden in about an hour if you don't include the faff of checking for stones, glass bottles, and cans that somehow end up on the garden.

 

[Burnerman]

The correct model number would be most helpful here.....usually four numbers followed by either M or H.
Can you check under the seat? That's where the I.D. plate usually is.
Both the deck and transmission belt are usually driven by the crankshaft pulley on the engine - transmission belt uppermost.
The belts do tend to flap about a bit but they shouldn't drop off the pulley - there are guide rods to help the belt stay on.
Do you have the old belt?
John

 

[jj4091]

Can you turn the blades by hand? I'm just wondering if one of the bearings in the deck has seized and making the drive belt jump off rather than the cutter belt.
You say
"I have a suspicion that the new drive belt might be too short and thus is preventing the travel of the clutch pedal."
But I don't think you would get it around the pulleys if that was the case. If anything the oposite may be true ie the belt is too long so won't tension so the clutch/brake pedal does not return to the home position.

 

[edtwozeronine]

Found the actual model number now and will order from a posh lawn mower site instead of eBay. The cutter deck has zero issues, blades spin fine but the clutch is deffo stuck down, and it's clearly meant to move to change gears. I'll crack on with my crazy plan until I hit another brick wall, like the Black Belt Barrister told me.

It says Mountfield 7 500 under the bonnet but under the seat it has a sticker that says Model: T38M-SD, Type: SD 98 for those playing along at home.

 

[Burnerman]

We're getting a little closer now!
I think the part you need is Mountfield 135062014/0
Part number 135062019 is for the hydrostatic drive version.
Look at SGL Bearings Ltd for belt dimensions.
SD means Side Discharge.
John

 

[edtwozeronine]

Cheers, looks like I'm off to spend some money!