Moving or spurring ring socket?

[AntonG]

Hi,

I have this socket (see the pictures) that I've got a washer and a dryer plugged into, but I'm going to put some cupboards there so the socket won't be accessible anymore.

I want to either move this socket to the left or add another socket there, whichever is easier, as I won't be using the existing socket due to its inaccessibility.



I thought that since there will be a washer (~10Amp), a dryer (~4Amp heat pump) and Ikea lights (<1Amp) plugged into that new triple socket, then maybe it's worth keeping it on the ring, what do you think?

As I understand if I keep it on the ring then I'll need two junction boxes, but I'm not sure if I'll be able to fit two of them within that backbox. Would it be fine to just connect everything with a bunch of wagos or each extension has to be additionally concealed in its own box? In this scenario I guess I'd have to cover everything with a blank plate as well.

Alternatively, I can add a spur socket which might be easier to do as long as its fine for this load since there wouldn't be any connectors/junction boxes involved. Is this a better option?

Regarding the new socket location, I'm going to have it surface mounted as the plaster is crap on that wall and it's going to sit inside the cupboard anyway, so I don't care about the appearance. I was going to just drill through the corner and have all the wires going through the sides of the backboxes. Do I have to keep the grey PVC where the wires run through the wall or given the short distance (~20cm) the sheathing is not required? It might be a bit easier to bend the wires without it.

Finally, what sort of testing I should carry out once I've done all this and does this type of work have to be certified?

Thanks

 

[ericmark]

Cooker connection unit in old location may help. There is another thread which may be of interest. This also talks about testing and inspecting.

To inspect and test would likely need you to hire equipment, may be better to get an EICR on that circuit. Or cross ones fingers, after reading other thread return here and say what you now think.

 

[sparkwright]

I would keep the new socket 'on the ring', and do a joint at the old position, with wagos and a blank plate.

This way, if you need to add a further socket from here in the future, you can, without it being a struggle.

 

[Taylortwocities]

I thought that since there will be a washer (~10Amp), a dryer (~4Amp heat pump) and Ikea lights (<1Amp) plugged into that new triple socket,

Umm... you say "that" triple socket. What is it? If it is the usual sort of triple socket then it will have a 13amp fuse.
Which makes your proposed load too large.

 

[AntonG]

Cooker connection unit in old location may help. There is another thread which may be of interest. This also talks about testing and inspecting.

To inspect and test would likely need you to hire equipment, may be better to get an EICR on that circuit. Or cross ones fingers, after reading other thread return here and say what you now think.

Thanks, I've read it and I think I should call an electrician... just need to tell my wife that this sort of DIY is beyond my reach
Her father and brother are electricians, so she thinks it must be simple. I am not though, and they are too far away to be able to help.

I would keep the new socket 'on the ring', and do a joint at the old position, with wagos and a blank plate.

This way, if you need to add a further socket from here in the future, you can, without it being a struggle.

Makes sense! Especially given what @Taylortwocities said

Umm... you say "that" triple socket. What is it? If it is the usual sort of triple socket then it will have a 13amp fuse.
Which makes your proposed load too large.

I see, so even though from what I found online a double socket is tested at 20amp (with some manufacturers allowing 26amp), the triple socket actually has less capacity? Should I then move this twin socket keeping it on the ring and then make a spur (single or twin) from the new location to achieve the desired result?

Question to all, since the load is not going to be too high, as another option should I just run a couple of good grade extension leads from the existing socket and plug the washer into one and dryer+lights into the other to avoid all the hassle?

there will be a washer (~10Amp), a dryer (~4Amp heat pump) and Ikea lights (<1Amp)

 

[fixesthingssometimes]

Cut a neat hole in the back of the cupboard so you can still use the socket? The backs of cabinets rarely get that close to the wall.

You can get little cheap plastic access panels if you wanted it to look neat inside the cabinet.

 

[AntonG]

Cut a neat hole in the back of the cupboard so you can still use the socket? The backs of cabinets rarely get that close to the wall.

You can get little cheap plastic access panels if you wanted it to look neat inside the cabinet.

I considered that but I've got three plugs and just one twin socket on that wall. Plus I'm not sure if the drier cord is going to be long enough once stacked on top of the washing machine.

And using a double plug adaptor will lead to quite a big gap between the wall and the cupboards. I don't want to lose all that space.

 

[fixesthingssometimes]

Plug the washer directly in, and fit a high quality 2-way extension lead for the drier/lights?

You'd definitely want a hole in the back of the unit so you could replace fuses/turn off sockets if there was a fault.

 

[robinbanks]

Question to all, since the load is not going to be too high, as another option should I just run a couple of good grade extension leads from the existing socket and plug the washer into one and dryer+lights into the other to avoid all the hassle?

Yes. Everything else is overthinking. Your washer and dryer don't draw their max demand all the time anyway