Moving Pipes Undersink

[gjw123]

Hello

I had posted a little while ago, but was hoping for a little more guidance! I am looking to install a slimline dishwasher (integrated) into a cupboard in my kitchen.

The depth of the dishwasher is 550mm and the depth of my cupboard is larger than this. The issue, however, is that the pipe which leads from the sink (next door cupboard) comes out quite a bit, decreasing the depth space within the cupboard I want to put the dishwasher in. This makes the actual depth of the cupboard (to the pipe) 510mm, so 40mm short for fitting the dishwasher.

There's quite a bit of space behind the pipe itself (and backboard of the cupboard). So I was wondering if anyone had any ideas on whether it would be feasible for me to push these pipes back closer to the wall?

My initial thought was to change the two 90 degree angle joints to 45 degree angles to reduce the depth it protrudes into the cupboard, or perhaps something like the grey pipe shown in the picture / 2 X 45 degree pipes (also in picture).

If anyone was able to give feedback on this / let me know other ideas, that'd be amazing.

There is a support beam that runs between the two cupboards, hence the need to bring the pipes out a bit in the non-sink cupboard.

I've attached pictures of the pipe in the dishwasher cupboard I want to move back, and the cupboard it leads into (with the sink).

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[Madrab]

I think we already covered this?

Dishwasher Installation Room Issues

Hello I am looking to install a slimline dishwasher (integrated) into a cupboard in my kitchen. The depth of it is 550mm and the depth of my cupboard is larger than this. The issue, however, is that the pipe which leads to the sink (next door cupboard) comes out quite a bit, decreasing the...

www.diynot.com

I think the approach should still be the same - whereby the pipe is moved back against the wall in the sink cupboard, the vertical baton is cut to allow the new waste pipe to be tighter to the wall and then straight along the wall like that with a couple of clips and go from there.

The bigger issue still is dealing with the copper though.

The grey offset may not work as it'll probably be uPVC and not ABS like the other pipework and they sometimes are not compatible when it comes to solvent welding them together. 2x45's would work but again you have that copper pipe to deal with.

 

[gjw123]

I think we already covered this?

Dishwasher Installation Room Issues

Hello I am looking to install a slimline dishwasher (integrated) into a cupboard in my kitchen. The depth of it is 550mm and the depth of my cupboard is larger than this. The issue, however, is that the pipe which leads to the sink (next door cupboard) comes out quite a bit, decreasing the...

www.diynot.com

I think the approach should still be the same - whereby the pipe is moved back against the wall in the sink cupboard, the vertical baton is cut to allow the new waste pipe to be tighter to the wall and then straight along the wall like that with a couple of clips and go from there.

The bigger issue still is dealing with the copper though.

The grey offset may not work as it'll probably be uPVC and not ABS like the other pipework and they sometimes are not compatible when it comes to solvent welding them together. 2x45's would work but again you have that copper pipe to deal with.

Perfect, thanks very much!

I think I am just trying to get the waste pipe as flush back as I can, without doing too much work to the back. The copper pipe (as far as I see) doesn't appear to be in the way too much. However, the wooden support beam is.

Do you have any views on how I could support the unit if I was to cut the wooden baton?

If not, I guess it'd be a case of replacing the 2 X 90's with 2 X 45's? Do you think that would give 40mm of room?

Thanks again!

 

[Madrab]

Do you have any views on how I could support the unit if I was to cut the wooden baton?

The baton doesn't support the unit per sé - the legs do that. all the baton may do is provide an anchor to stop the unit from being pulled forward - cutting out a section, just enough to allow the pipe to sit closer to the wall shouldn't compromise anything.

If the copper is tight enough to the wall then that may provide enough room clear the copper but still move the waste pipe back enough to clear the appliance. hard to say without being there of course but if that will allow the waste to move back a pipe's width then there's your 40mm.

 

[gjw123]

The baton doesn't support the unit per sé - the legs do that. all the baton may do is provide an anchor to stop the unit from being pulled forward - cutting out a section, just enough to allow the pipe to sit closer to the wall shouldn't compromise anything.

If the copper is tight enough to the wall then that may provide enough room clear the copper but still move the waste pipe back enough to clear the appliance. hard to say without being there of course but if that will allow the waste to move back a pipe's width then there's your 40mm.

Ah that's interesting, thank you for letting me know. Do you have any views on how much of that beam could I cut through without it being an issue to its support function of stopping the unit being pulled forward?

Having re-looked, if the pipe went in a straight line it might just clip the pipe...

Do you have any ideas on how I could move round the pipe / beam just a little in a way that brings the pipes less into the cabinet? Or would this be the 2 X 45's, as discussed?

At the bottom of the dishwasher at the rear there is a gap, but presumably because that is lower than the ultimate exit of the pipe into the wall (meaning it would have to go up at the end), this wouldn't work (picture attached)?

 

[Madrab]

The height of the waste pipe is dictated by the height of the outflow into the stack/drain - without seeing where that pipe heads out/into the stack, it would be hard to say how low it could be taken and still keep a suitable fall, to then use the service cutout in the appliance.

Without knowing where the fixing points for the baton - into the wall - then it's hard to comment on the baton too but cutting out say 45mm, to take the pipe, shouldn't be an issue. Yes, the 2x45's would be the only other way to take the pipe backwards into the service void. The trouble, as I see it though, is the copper pipe that 1/3 of the way in from the left, in the cabinet, that's the main stumbling block. If anything it's the pipe that's stopping the waste pipe going far enough back, soon enough into the cabinet, so the DW will then miss it.

 

[gjw123]

The height of the waste pipe is dictated by the height of the outflow into the stack/drain - without seeing where that pipe heads out/into the stack, it would be hard to say how low it could be taken and still keep a suitable fall, to then use the service cutout in the appliance.

Without knowing where the fixing points for the baton - into the wall - then it's hard to comment on the baton too but cutting out say 45mm, to take the pipe, shouldn't be an issue. Yes, the 2x45's would be the only other way to take the pipe backwards into the service void. The trouble, as I see it though, is the copper pipe that 1/3 of the way in from the left, in the cabinet, that's the main stumbling block. If anything it's the pipe that's stopping the waste pipe going far enough back, soon enough into the cabinet, so the DW will then miss it.

Thanks again for the detailed reply. I've had another look at it and also had a plumber come over to estimate the cost if I feel this is not something I'm able to do.

They've suggested that they could push it back with two well-angled 45's, or perhaps one 45 and one conversion bend 45 (but which apparently had less angle wiggle room). They said they don't think they'd even need to go into the wood and that it would clear the copper pipe.

In terms of considering whether to do this myself or not, would the two 45's be the ones in the picture attached - and if so, how would they attach together as the ends appear to be the same size?

They've also said I'd probably want 2 X new traps (one with a spigot), as well as a dishwasher T-joint on the copper pipe (picture attached).

 

[Madrab]

As long as the waste will go back far enough to clear the appliance, then job's a guddun.

 

[gjw123]

As long as the waste will go back far enough to clear the appliance, then job's a guddun.

Lovely, thanks! Would you say the two 45's shown would be suitable to put together to reduce, or would you recommend a 45 joint & 45 conversion joint?

 

[Madrab]

Ah ok, the 2 standard 45's would be the ones to use - you just use a small piece of 40mm waste pipe fitted into them, then glue, to connect them.

 

[gjw123]

Ah ok, the 2 standard 45's would be the ones to use - you just use a small piece of 40mm waste pipe fitted into them, then glue, to connect them.

Perfect, thanks!

Do you think from looking at the traps I currently have that it's necessary to replace them too (picture attached), given that one already has a spigot?

Would it be feasible to use a double trap with spigot to cover both (currently separate), or would I be better off getting two singles as it currently is? I'll love replace the bottle with a P if I do.

Lastly, I'll need to get a washing machine tee valve to go on the cold water pipe (the copper pipe without the black lever). I think it'll be the one I've attached a picture of. Would this mean I'd need to somehow cut the pipe to add it, or could I just replace the valve currently there?

 

[Madrab]

Do you think from looking at the traps I currently have that it's necessary to replace them too (picture attached), given that one already has a spigot?

Not necessarily - it's not really an all in one standard trap setup but it all seems to be secure and in good condition. usual approach would be a P trap on the 1/2 bowl and the main sink waste runs into that.

Normal arrangement for me would be one of these

Would this mean I'd need to somehow cut the pipe to add it, or could I just replace the valve currently there?

I would disconnect the valve at the bottom nut (water off), move the pipe and valve up, connect the appliance tee onto the bottom pipe with the nut. then a little piece of pipe and then connect the ISO valve just above it. You want to keep the ISO valve for servicing the sink tap without having to shut off the appliance.

 

[gjw123]

Not necessarily - it's not really an all in one standard trap setup but it all seems to be secure and in good condition. usual approach would be a P trap on the 1/2 bowl and the main sink waste runs into that.

Normal arrangement for me would be one of these

View attachment 341910

I would disconnect the valve at the bottom nut (water off), move the pipe and valve up, connect the appliance tee onto the bottom pipe with the nut. then a little piece of pipe and then connect the ISO valve just above it. You want to keep the ISO valve for servicing the sink tap without having to shut off the appliance.

Brilliant, thanks. So in terms of the copper pipe, remove the current valve on there at the bottom, cut the pipe further up and replace it there. Then put the new washing machine valve in the place where the previous valve was lower down?

 

[Madrab]

Nope - disconnect the valve off the pipe then replace the valve with the tap - then use a wee bit of pipe in the top of the tap and then connect the valve into that. so just moving it all up a little and put the tap where the valve is at the moment.

 

[gjw123]

Nope - disconnect the valve off the pipe then replace the valve with the tap - then use a wee bit of pipe in the top of the tap and then connect the valve into that. so just moving it all up a little and put the tap where the valve is at the moment.

Ah, I see what you mean. The only thing is I don't have any 15mm copper pipe, though, I suppose I could buy some. Would it make much of a difference if I were to replace the isolation valve with the tap, then just put the isolation valve further up after making a cut?