Moving plug socket

[rhysjc]

Hi all,

Currently planning to rearrange our bedroom a little. I'll be moving the bed 90 degrees to the left and putting some wardrobes in where it currently is. The headboard will be against a chimney breast so I'll be boxing in the alcoves either side for some additional storage. There's already a socket in the left alcove, the one on the right doesn't have one but there is one on the adjacent wall which I'll no longer need as it'll be covered by the wardrobe.

What I need to do is relocate the old redundant socket to be on the right of the bed, and relocate the existing socket on the left so that it sits on the MDF/ply covering the boxing in rather than inside the alcove.

My plan is something like the below:
1. Remove existing sockets
2. Using some 3 way wagos, connect the existing lives/neutrals/earths coming in to the backboxes to a new length of T&E
3. Run the T&E to the new locations
4. Use a dry lining box on the mdf/ply covering the boxing
5. Fit new socket

I've changed a few sockets before but never moved a socket, so I've got a few questions.
Feel like I should put a blanking plate on the old back boxes, but then not sure how I would run the new T&E out of it? Just drill a hole?
Should I run the T&E in conduit/trunking?
In terms of cable zones, not sure what to do here? Easy enough to stay within a zone running cable along the wall from the old sockets, but given I need to bring the cable forward out of the alcove, what would a zone be here? Can I just run the cable along the floor inside the boxing in, then up underneath the new socket in a zone?

Thanks for any comments

 

[ericmark]

Start with safe zones for wiring

using a blanking plate helps to keep in the safe zones, then need to look how the original is supplied, with have Ring finals, Radials, Unfused spurs, and fused spurs, your need to work out which you have, there are a host of rules of how you can extend depending on what you already have, there are also limits to both line - neutral loop impedance (or prospective short circuit current) and the line - earth loop impedance (or prospective short circuit current) often meters auto measure L - N as PSCC and L - E as ELI, there are two reasons to measure, one is a standard B32 MCB has two devices in one, the heat part is 32 amp, but the magnetic part is with a B device 3 - 5 times that figure, so simple ohms law 230/160 = 1.44Ω add 5% for safety, so maximum limit is 1.38Ω.

With the L - E and a TT supply, so must have an RCD, the value of the ELI exceeding 200 ohms may not be stable, so that is the limit, the L - N reading is more to do with volt drop, a ring final is limited to around 106 meters of 2.5 mm² with radials and spurs depends on the fuse/MCB size, my tester is a cheap one, only around £75, so only gives 1 decimal place, so 0.4Ω would be a fail, however not for this test as supply is 13 amp fuse, so 3.86Ω is the limit, one can calculate the volt drop from the loop impedance, but since mine only to 1 decimal place, rather inaccurate.

You will need to complete the minor works certificate, these can be downloaded from the IET website, and you will need to test the RCD.

So in real life, the DIY guy starts with the last installation certificate or electrical installation condition report, and we look at how close to the wind the installation was sailing back then, and is there room to increase the loop impedance, in the main easy way is use a FCU where the old socket was, as moving from 1.38Ω to 3.86Ω gives one a lot of extra cable, and also cheaper testers can be used, these

only cost £45.

Once one decides forget the regulations, I am doing it on the cheap, then why bother asking, I am sure most DIY work does not comply, not down to me to criticise, you asked the question.

 

[rhysjc]

Very sorry ericmark but almost all of that is totally unapproachable from a DIY perspective…

 

[rhysjc]

I’ve realised a mistake I made here overnight. If I connected the two cables currently in to the back box with one new one to run to the new socket, I’d be creating a spur. What I actually want to do is just extend the ring by moving the location of the current socket. So what I need to do is connect two lengths of cable, one to each of the cables coming in to the socket. Then I’ll no longer be creating a spur.

 

[EFLImpudence]

I’ve realised a mistake I made here overnight. If I connected the two cables currently in to the back box with one new one to run to the new socket, I’d be creating a spur.

So what?

What I actually want to do is just extend the ring by moving the location of the current socket. So what I need to do is connect two lengths of cable, one to each of the cables coming in to the socket.

So you will have two cables running in the same place. Why do you prefer that?

You could use one run of 4mm² cable if you want more than one socket on the spur.

Then I’ll no longer be creating a spur.

Ok but what benefit do you think that will provide?

The joints at the present socket location will have to remain accessible or a maintenance-free method used for the connections.

 

[ericmark]

Very sorry ericmark but almost all of that is totally unapproachable from a DIY perspective…

I realise that, it is important to realise DIY moving of a socket is taking a chance.

In the main, the safest way for DIY moving of a socket is to replace the original with a FCU (fused connection unit) and in essence the new socket is a permanent installed extension lead.

If you can see the cable of the trunking the cable is in, then don't need to follow safe zones, and if you use an RCD FCU then you can get around no RCD at the consumer unit.

But there is a reason why we have a 4-year apprenticeship, and I would not expect you to learn it reading answers on a forum. I am trying to keep you safe.