Moving radiator pipework

[kevinsmbuk]

I'm currently renovating my lounge and this radiator pipework is in an awkward place, right where a TV unit would sit.

Due to the heat and awkward positioning would you say it would be a good idea to chase it into the wall? If so can plastic push fit joints be used for this i.e. 90 degree JG elbow and pipework or avoid that? Can't see the joints being covered in plaster a good idea.

I can use copper and have all the materials Inc rothernburger torch but to be honest I haven't used one before!

Or would you opt to have it running along the wall tightly with clips?

The reason why the pipes are suspended like they are is there was a brick built old fashioned TV stand there previously and the pipes were running through the brickwork

 

[oldbuffer]

1. Looks like 22 mm pipework. You'd need a relatively deep chase to get it into the walls, allowing for insulation and a plaster top coat.
2. Don't plaster push fit fittings in.
3. I'd go for tight clipping against the wall. Perhaps use saddle clips for minimum clearance.
4. My preference would be for end feed soldered fittings. Soldering the elbows close to the walls could be awkward unless there is some give the other side.
5. If you are not familiar with soldering, get some spare tube and fittings, and practice before the real thing.
6. Might be an idea to solder up the horizontal / vertical / horizontal pieces and pressure test them, then the only untested joints would be the elbows / straight couplers going into the walls.
7. Are there any options for running the pipes the other side of the wall? Or lowering the pipes closer to the floor?

 

[kevinsmbuk]

1. Looks like 22 mm pipework. You'd need a relatively deep chase to get it into the walls, allowing for insulation and a plaster top coat.
It's definitely 15mm.

2. Don't plaster push fit fittings in. Thanks thought that might be the case

3. I'd go for tight clipping against the wall. Perhaps use saddle clips for minimum clearance. Thanks.

4. My preference would be for end feed soldered fittings. Soldering the elbows close to the walls could be awkward unless there is some give the other side. Ok will look at those.

5. If you are not familiar with soldering, get some spare tube and fittings, and practice before the real thing. Good idea.

6. Might be an idea to solder up the horizontal / vertical / horizontal pieces and pressure test them, then the only untested joints would be the elbows / straight couplers going into the walls. Yes was thinking that. How do you pressure test though?

7. Are there any options for running the pipes the other side of the wall? Or lowering the pipes closer to the floor? possibly lowering and being into the floor. The area of floor below the pipes was a concrete hardstanding for a fireplace hearth.

 

[oldbuffer]

1. If its 15 mm, chasing into the wall becomes an option. Say, 25 mm chase, wrap the pipe to stop plaster getting at (say 2 layers of Duck tape. Ideal is Denso, but likely to stain the walls), some foam insulation to allow expansion then thin plaster cover.
2. Could be air pressure tested, using something like Screwfix 72940. Bit expensive for a one off, you could take the risk and see what happens when the water goes back on.
3. Could lower into the floor.

 

[endecotp]

How do you pressure test though?

I’ve recently bought one of these cheap chinese pressure testers:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Water-Pressure-Test-Pump-2-5MPa-Leakage-Tester-Heating-System-Hydraulic-Pipeline/383313862874

It’s pretty good for the price. No English instructions. Get some push-fit couplings to connect it to your pipework. Fill the pipe with water before connecting the pump so less air is trapped and less pumping is required.

Testing with water is better than air because:

1. You can see water leaking but air is harder to notice.
2. Compressed air is dangerous! (Even with water, wear safety glasses.)

 

[kevinsmbuk]

Thanks for the advice guys, and just to check one other thing. In terms of draining the CH system (system boiler) it's just turn off boiler, stop header tank refilling. Hose to draincock at lowest point and run outside. Open rad bleed valves upstairs?