What joints can I use behind plaster?

[Adrian s]

Well the new chrome gleaming towel rail is fixed to the wall but the inline radiator valves and exposed chrome plated pipe are just not going to look the part.

I'd like to use angled radiator valves and bury the pipework into the solid wall for about 300mm.

If I go back to copper pipe, can I use pushfit or compression elbows in the wall or would the joints have to be soldered? I’ve never soldered pipe before

Any other pointers for chasing pipework would e appreciated.

Thanks

Adrian S

 

[holty]

never use pushfit on chrome plated. use compression if you havent soldered before, use ptfe on the olives,preferably id use solder by carefully taking the chrome plate off but this would be advisable for someone whos soldered before.

 

[corgiman]

shouldnt really use compression in inaccessable areas (water regs etc)

solder or non demountable push fit (if you can get them)

 

[Adrian s]

Thanks. I guess I'll go for the non demountable then.

 

[pipefix]

shouldnt really use compression in inaccessable areas (water regs etc)

solder or non demountable push fit (if you can get them)

Hi Corgiman

You made reference to water regs (are these separate from building regs?). So I wondered if it was illegal to install compression joints under a floor or just bad practice?

 

[BenRL]

Just bad practice pipefix You are allowed to do it.

 

[bster]

Water Regulations ACT 1999. as the name suggests they are an act of law and enforceable

...thats enforced by someone somewhere apparently

 

[kevplumb]

if you have any sense you DO NOT PUT any joint under plaster

 

[Slugbabydotcom]

Thanks. I guess I'll go for the non demountable then.

NO NO NO!!!!!! NEVER USE ANY PUSH FIT ON CHROME

They slip off and cause floods!

Use copper or plastic in the wall and a chrome compression elbow at the point of exit. Solder copper pipe joints in the wall then wrap with tape to protect them and the copper pipe. Plastic pipes should not have any joints behind the plaster but you can get away with this if the wall is dry lined.

Soldered fittings react badly with cement especially when there is dampness present. I have not seen a case yet where dry plaster has reacted with copper pipe.
I do however recall a case where damp plaster in a converted barn had carried ammonia to copper pipework and reacted with the joints. I replaced these pipes with Hep20 in November 1986 with several joints in the wall and they are still working today.

Water regs are more important for potable water but it is at the least good practice to follow them for heating system pipework

 

[ChrisR]

Ade, learn to solder. Use solder-ring fittings, practice on a bit of plain copper before a couple of cleaned chrome ones. You do have to get all the chrome off - emery cloth is OK.
Then you can call yourself a plumber and earn a fortune like wot we do.

 

[Adrian s]

Ummm! Well I've already done it and refilled the system but it's not tiled over yet.

I used a short piece of chrome plated copper from the rad to a pushfit copper elbow in the wall. The chrome was carefully removed at the push fit end with sand paper and wire wool so the fitting gripped onto the copper.The remaining pipework was all copper.

The wall is breeze block not cavity. I thought bending the pipe would take too much room hence the elbow joint.

I did consider learning to solder but I thought that if a pushfit was ok then I'd just go with that.

If you think I've just installed a time bomb, then I'll change it

 

[Slugbabydotcom]

So long as you have got all the chrome off then you should be ok.

Try physically pulling against the joint to make sure its solid

 

[Adrian s]

So long as you have got all the chrome off then you should be ok.

Try physically pulling against the joint to make sure its solid

Yes the joints are solid, I can't pull them off.

Thanks for the reassurance