Multi Point Lock on Wooden Door?

[Graeme]

Hi,

My front door is wooden, it has a Yale Thumbturn lock at the top and a Mortice Lock on the handle. I am not convinced of the strength of these locks and want to upgrade. I would like to install a multi-point lock like you see on UPVC doors, with the Hook/Rollers on it. Is it possible to fit a MPL on a wooden door?

Thanks

 

[crank39]

Yes it is, you'll need to buy said MPLM and see where you need to router out, the only problem i can see is the holes from you original locks, handles and keeps

 

[JohnD]

you do not say what sort of locks you already have

Have you considered upgrading them both to BS locks (if not already?)

Are you thinking of fitting a MPLS with a cylinder lock? Are you aware Euro Profile cylinders can be defeated by various popular and low-skill methods?

Will it conform to BS?

If not verify your Home Insurance does not require BS locks on the final exit door (mine does)

OOI, the reason plastic doors are littered with complex locking systems, is because they are fundamentally much weaker and more flexible than a proper door.

 

[HandyHands]

As above - just ensure your mortice locks conform to British Standards, and forget about the multipoint. You could always fit extra mortice deadlocks to beef-up the door security.

 

[big-all]

wont work on a normal door without looking odd

you need somwhere around 12-15mm clearence between door and frame for the rollers to engadge on the brackets
on a normal width door you will need cover plates on the frame on one side and the door on the other side to cover this gap

the rebate on the frame may or maynot be deep enough to cover that side

 

[JohnD]

could do it with hooks if you really wanted to*

(I mean the hook-like flap bolt that retreats into the slot in the door)

I think Ingersoll do something like this for hundreds of pounds

edited:
or Chubb CTS30TX, CTS50TX

*not that I would

 

[Graeme]

Thanks very much for all advice. I would be keen on the idea of just adding extra mortice locks but the thought of needing 3 or 4 keys led me to believe that a MPL with one key would be the answer. I've just got it into my head that a swift kick could knock the locks out and the door needs strengthing in some way. I could leave the existing and fit something at the top and bottom of the door, but I don't think I've ever seen a front door with locks all over on it like that!

 

[JohnD]

if you have a BS mortice deadlock 1/3rd up from the bottom, and a BS deadlocking nightlatch 1/3rd down from the top, that should be enough. It will mean two keys

In most cases, latches have cylinder locks and deadlocks have levers, otherwise you could have both locks suited to the same key (which means you have fewer keys to carry)

I have the deadlocks on my back doors and garage personal door suited to the same key (it costs a few pounds extra from a proper locksmith) which is very convenient.

 

[HandyHands]

Mortice sashlock central - provides a door handle and latching facility, then mortice deadlocks top and bottom (1/3 up, 1/3 down). All 3 could be keyed-alike, so 1 key opens everything. More secure than any MPT mechanism, and your insurance company will be your new best friend.

 

[cjw118]

Hi everyone

I'm a joiner / Locksmith by trade and have experience fitting multipoint door locks onto timber / wooden doors. Hope I can shed some light on this issue.

Although mortice locks are a traditional favorite for wooden / timber doors, multipoint locks are becoming ever more popular. Due to their inherant design, they produce better weather sealing and higher security plus they are quicker to lock and unlock by the client as manually operated push bolts are not required top and bottom.

A weakness in the system is the euro cylinder barrel so be sure to fit a high security version, the favorite one at the moment is the "Avocet ABS" with the "Yale anti-snap" a close 2nd.

Usually a 45mm backset lock is referred (depth of the lock body - front of faceplate to centre of handle spindle), although 35mm backset and 55mm backset could also be used depending on the frame width.

Providing the multipoint lock used has no roller cams or mushrooms, just hooks or other fully retractable locking points then an air gap is not required between the sash and the frame - no rebate is required therefore will be suitable for most timber doors on the market.

There aren't many places that show a decent selection of multipoint locks suitable for wooden doors, however I have found a few companies online, they usually sell "UPVC Hardware" but they have a dedicated sections for "timber multipoint door locks", try a search on google for those search terms.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I have to agree with the previous post - you can get high security snap-proof, bump proof Euro barrels by just looking around. 5-lever mortises seem secure until to go out to replace them and find that the thief has gained entry very simply (and not using force or lock picks). They aren't as secure as some folk believe them to be

 

[tim_foster5mpu]

I realise this is quite an old post, but I'm hoping that someone can advise me on something similar.

I have a Yale Connexis lock on my house in the UK with a UPVC door. This all works fine and I love the key-less locking concept. I also have a house in Mexico and had hoped to get something similar. The problem is, the door we have in Mexico uses a single deadbolt mechanism and has a chamfered edge rather than a flush one like in England, and it turns out, I can't buy the Connexis lock here anyway!

However, I can buy the Samsung SBS H505 in our local Home Depot. This seems to be very similar to the Connexis in function, with the added benefit of being able to track every open and close (unlike the Connexis which only tracks unlocks using the phone app, which doesn't work very well). So, since Home Depot seem to have these marked down (Smart stuff only launched in Mexico in the last 3 months, so there is very little take up), it seems like a good opportunity to get one at a decent price. I'm just not sure if it will fit on the existing door, or if I need to replace the door.

I've attached a few photos of the door and lock, and I'm hoping someone with some expertise in doors and different types of locks can tell me what I need to make this work.

The current lock is quite typical of door locks here, but to my mind seems very insecure, especially as the part it locks into is just a wooden frame too (the other side of the chamfer). Most locksmiths here only have experience of relatively basic locks, so asking a locksmith here for advice, doesn't really help.

To my, uninformed, mind, I think I need to replace the door with one that has a flush profile and fit a new door frame, or can I simply adapt this door to work with the Samsung lock? Any advise would be hugely appreciated.