My new invention for underfloor heating...seriously.

[poorandbroke]

In order to save a few bob and not line the pockets of zillionair underfloor heating plumbers I invented a new u/f radiator system and was wondering if any clever clogs could pick holes in it.
My new system resembles a radiator laid flat (with one alteration) and stretched to fit the room. Basically it would involve laying 15mm Cu pipe between the floor joists connected at each end to a Tee with the other two outlets of the Tee connected to the adjacent Tee and so on. Obviously the Tees would end at one side of the room with one outlet of the last Tees being blocked and at the opposite end of the room the first Tees would be connected to the hot water feed and cold return respectively - so as to pump the hot water through all the pipes. Clearly the water temp would need to be reduced but other than that I can't see much that could go wrong, so come on you expert Pb melters pick holes in it if yah can!
I should add that of course this is for wood floors only.

 

[Diyisfun]

Efficiency

 

[bab]

ur havin a laugh.

 

[poorandbroke]

Same heat coming out of the pipes as with the 'gold plated' outrageously expensive plastic pipe Diyisfun, what's inefficient with that?

 

[2scoops0406]

Sounds like underfloor heating to me.

 

[poorandbroke]

ur havin a laugh.

No. Tell me what's wrong with it don't just sit there splitting ur sides.

 

[bab]

r u gona fit a std trv mounted to the wall to comply wth part L for bedrooms as a min requirement & a l/sheild to ballance the system. When u state were all ziliionaires the time factor over plastic is go increase the problem of what to spend all our money on even more.

 

[chrishutt]

Clearly the water temp would need to be reduced

Why?

 

[Paul Barker]

For suspended floor, I would use 8mm copper which you can bend in a continuous length which terminates at your main flow and return pipes, controlled by a two port zone valve and pump programmable roomstat in that room.

Insulate between the joists beneath the heating circuit unless it is a floor between two heating zones in which case I'd not insulate.

I don't see the need for a blend valve.

 

[corgiman]

you would need a blend valve mate, or u will end up cooking the family pets, (as they did when UFH first hit the market)

bare in mind that the boiler can heat up the circulating water to 90 degs!

 

[poorandbroke]

Clearly the water temp would need to be reduced

Why?

Because the room would get too hot there being a greater amount of radiating surface and with the hot water flow rate being the same.

 

[bab]

I think this thread has lost the plot & will soon hit General chat if the Mods r awake.

 

[silverback]

How would you control the temperature, how would you insulate beneath the pipes, how would you support the pipework, how would you insure the heat radiated across the floor evenly, at the end of the day if you want to make some crappy underfloor heating system for your own house, go ahead, who cares.

 

[poorandbroke]

Thanks Paul Barker & corgiman, some postive critique which is what I want. 8mm pipe, I looked all over the Internet as I knew there was small bore pipe made but not being a plumber myself didn't know the right size or term, now I do, cheers.

 

[chrishutt]

Because the room would get too hot there being a greater amount of radiating surface and with the hot water flow rate being the same.

"greater" than what? "the same" as what?