Need help with Baxi Solo fault

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I have a Baxi Solo 18 HE boiler which has been installed and working for about 2 and a half years. I put the hot water on this morning and it was cold, checked the boiler and it was showing an error...

no water flow or flow/return reversed

Can anyone give me help on what this could be and how to fix it?
 
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Your boiler is relatively new, so if it was fitted to a new system, or to an old system which had been properly cleaned, and inhibitor was added, it should not suffer from sediment unless there is some other fault such as a leak.

If the F&E tank has water in it (have a look) but nothing, or very little, squirts out when you bleed the highest radiator in the house, then there is usually a blockage of corrosion sediment in the 15mm F&E pipe where it joins in a Tee to the main circulating (22mm) pipes. This is usually close to the pump and/or cylinder and/or boiler. The blockage is usually black iron oxide and can be detected by holding a magnet to the copper pipe, it will be attracted to the iron at the point of blockage.

If the Tee is a compression joint it can be undone and cleaned out, if it is soldered it will have to be cut out and replaced. You will not be able to solder wet pipes so replace with brass compression fittings. Drain the system before cutting or undoing the Tee.

The usual cause is lack of anti-corrosion chemical (inhibitor) in the circulating water, or possibly the system has been pumping-over and introducing fresh dissolved air into the water.

Assuming the problem is caused by corrosion sediment, you should clean it out from the rest of the system by using a sediment-loosening cleaning chemical such as Sentinel X400. After you have cleaned, drained and rinsed the system, you should add an Inhibitor chemical such as sentinel X100 on final fill.

Also see FAQ 12, 14, 20, 24, 26 and others //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=175736&start=0
 
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Thank you JohnD

Your positive answer is much appreciated and detailed. So many people on here just want you to go out and pay high prices when sometimes it can be diy fixed.

I will try the things you have said.

Thanks again
 
Poor circulation can be caused by several other issues. See if there is water in the small header tank in the loft. Check the pump and any motorised valves before cutting into pipework.
 
Yes, certainly start by checking the presence of sufficient water.

If the F&E tank has water in it (have a look) but nothing, or very little, squirts out when you bleed the highest radiator in the house...
 
bleed the highest radiator in the house, see if water squirts out forcefully without the pressure dying away
 
bleed the highest radiator in the house, see if water squirts out forcefully without the pressure dying away
Thanks for the tip. I tried it and it was ok. I have now drained down the ch through radiator drain off. I am now stuggling with which pipes would drain down the hot water tank and connecting pipes. So many pipes and stop valves.

Can anyone help?
 
Why now do you want to drain the hot water tank? Draining the system as you have said would have also drained the indirect coil in the cylinder. I fail to see what you are trying to achieve.
 
Trying to clear all water pipes so i can check to see if there is a blockage. Hot water tank is still full as it has an immersion heater.
 
you do not need to drain the hot water cylinder you have an indirect system.
 
You seem to have spent the last five days NOT checking the pump as suggested.

The FAQ on this site has lots on info on how to do that!

The pros on here do not take kindly to any one who suggests they charge over high prices!

Tony
 
You seem to have spent the last five days NOT checking the pump as suggested.

I did look at the faq's and the reference to the pump. The pump i have installed is a Grundfos alpha 2 which means it has no centre screw. When the pump is running i can hear spinning from it which i assumed it meant that it was ok.

Any more help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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