Need to fit a new sink, tap and isolation valves

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Hi Guys,

My sink is knackered, I managed to do a bodge repair with Silicone but need to replace it. Whilst I'm there I'll be replacing the tap and adding isolation valves.

I've watched some videos and I THINK I know what to do, but I wondered if you nice folk could tell me if I've missed something and got the order right?

1)Pipe slice the 2 copper pipes (after turning the water off and turning taps on to drain!) and fit the isolation valves that I've bought https://www.toolstation.com/jg-speedfit-isolating-valve/p12212

2)Remove tap nut and undo the copper joints and remove tap

3)Undo the waste connections, undo screws and clips and finally remove the sink

4)Drill tap hole into the sink, place sink in the work surface, Tighten screws and clips, reconnect waste.

5)Attach flexihoses to tap, place tap into sink and tighten the tap nut and connect flexi tails to copper joints. Silicone round the sink, turn water on and hope it doesn't leak.

A few questions I had
-Do I need to PTFE tape anywhere other than copper joint to flexihoses?
-Will flexihoses attach directly to the copper joints that are there no or do I need any adaptor?

All pipes are 15mm and this is the sink I have bought with a tap (its the same size, manufacturer and style as the old one) https://www.shipitappliances.com/pa...ctonite-kitchen-sink-and-clearwater-creta-tap

Cheers

Larry
 

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1. You shouldn't need PTFE tape anywhere in your installation, including the copper to flexi joints.
2. Once you have fitted those isolation valves, you won't have copper to join to.
3. If the flexi length is suitable, and has female threaded ends, I'd suggest using adapters to join the flexi's to the isolation valves. Have a look at Screwfix 6089R or 2665R (3/8" and 1/2" respectively).
4. If the flexis are too long or too short, you'll have to change the existing pipework. If too short I'd suggest making up the distance with copper tube. If too long, you will have to look at other options, which could include forming a complete loop in the flexi and adding copper or plastic pipe. Don't sharply bend or kink the flexis.
5. If you have the opportunity, I'd suggest changing those isolation valves for good quality (e.g. Pegler) full bore isolation valves.
 
Hi Oldbuffer, thank you so much for your advice, the tap arrived today and it looks like I need a trip to Screwfix or similar as the flexis are far too long. I'll get two adaptors 2665R like you suggested as the flexi does have a female end (these can go straight into the Speedfits right?), I had intended to put the isolators further down the pipework but will skip that with the adaptors in mind.

Regarding the Pegler valves, are the JG speedfit not that great?

Cheers

Larry
 

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Nothing intrinsically wrong with them, but they have a restricted bore, like many isolation valves. Doesn't matter much if you have mains pressure, but if, for example, your hot is from a vented cylinder narrow bore presents significant resistance to flow.
 
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Hi Guys,

My sink is knackered, I managed to do a bodge repair with Silicone but need to replace it. Whilst I'm there I'll be replacing the tap and adding isolation valves.

I've watched some videos and I THINK I know what to do, but I wondered if you nice folk could tell me if I've missed something and got the order right?

1)Pipe slice the 2 copper pipes (after turning the water off and turning taps on to drain!) and fit the isolation valves that I've bought https://www.toolstation.com/jg-speedfit-isolating-valve/p12212

2)Remove tap nut and undo the copper joints and remove tap

3)Undo the waste connections, undo screws and clips and finally remove the sink

4)Drill tap hole into the sink, place sink in the work surface, Tighten screws and clips, reconnect waste.

5)Attach flexihoses to tap, place tap into sink and tighten the tap nut and connect flexi tails to copper joints. Silicone round the sink, turn water on and hope it doesn't leak.

A few questions I had
-Do I need to PTFE tape anywhere other than copper joint to flexihoses?
-Will flexihoses attach directly to the copper joints that are there no or do I need any adaptor?

All pipes are 15mm and this is the sink I have bought with a tap (its the same size, manufacturer and style as the old one) https://www.shipitappliances.com/pa...ctonite-kitchen-sink-and-clearwater-creta-tap

Cheers

Larry
As the pipes to the tap are rigid, if your new sink is stainless steel it might be a good idea to retain the rigid pipes to add stiffness, though it could be more work. Also they will last longer than flexis. Not so important if it's a thick ceramic sink.
 
Hi Guys,

Well I managed to do it and am mostly happy with the end result. I have a couple of snagging items if you guys could help me again please?

1. I managed to chip a bit round the tap whilst drilling the tap hole, an amateur mistake on my part no doubt. Can anyone recommend something to repair this with? I'm resigned to the fact any repair will be less than perfect but as its behind the tap I don't mind too much. My wife reckoned she could get a good colour match with nail polish, did hear it mentioned on SF forum as well. Its a Franke tectonite sink.

2. The waste from the small bowl is a bodge, I bought a flexible waste but whilst it fits the sink it doesn't fit into the pipe. So I went to a local plumbing shop and the guy gave me a lengh of pipe (stamped 41mm) and two plastic compression connectors and said they would fit but they don't. He also said they don't make the pipe I have any more. I've cut the flexible connector, fed it into the pipe and used PTFE tape, it works for now but I want to do it properly. Any ideas what I can actually buy to make the connection into the existing trap? I used some Calipers and the waste pipe is 40mm exactly outer diameter.

Thanks again guys for your help.

Larry
 

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