Need to move cooker switch - Part P?

[reg091]

I need to:

1. Blank off existing switch - fitting sufficiently rated connector strips (45A?)
2. Extend the existing cable using a sufficently rated wall mounted junction box.
3. Cable will run under floorboards.
4. At new cooker position run cable up wall to new cooker switch. Cable to be plastered over so assume steel capping required?
5. Run connection cable down same capping to cooker connection outlet plate.
6. Connect new double oven (4.5Kw rated).

(Cooker circuit has 32A MCB and is probably 6mm (I haven't measured it yet))

Question: Is this Part P notifiable? The table of "What needs to be notified" shows kitchens under the "Minor Works, Extensions and Modifications to Existing Circuits" as NOT notifiable. But I see chatter on forums suggesting otherwise.

 

[Simon35]

I would say this is an alteration to an existing circuit, so is not subject to notification.

No need for capping.

How are you planning to test it. An electrician would complete a minor works certificate. What will you do? Nothing to stop you doing the same, assuming you have the required knowledge and equipment.

Will the cooker switch have a socket outlet also?

 

[reg091]

Thanks Simon. My first answer to how to test it was switch the oven on!

Clearly I don't have "the right knowledge or equipment" as what is there to test beyond that? And what certification is needed if it is not Part P notifiable?

 

[Simon35]

Thanks Simon. My first answer to how to test it was switch the oven on!

Clearly I don't have "the right knowledge or equipment" as what is there to test beyond that? And what certification is needed if it is not Part P notifiable?

Just because it isn't notifiable, doesn't mean it isn't covered by Part P of the Building Regulations.

Here's a link to IEE website with a download for a minor works certificate. Have a look at the essential tests. Can you do them?

https://electrical.theiet.org/bs-7671/model-forms/

 

[boringoldcodger]

Deleted, as no longer relevant.

 

[reg091]

Thanks again Simon. I guess my understanding of Part P and building regs in general was that there were two categories: 1) You had to let the authorities know 2) you could do whatever you liked to your own home and no one needed to be notified no matter if you were totally incompetent and burnt your house down!

I prefer option 2 but we are stuck with "big brother" wanting to know what we get up to it seems. As an aside, what is the certificate needed for? If we sell the house I guess, or maybe insurance claims?

So, to answer your question: I probably could figure out how to test to complete the certificate but don't have test equipment beyond a multimeter! I have a mate who is a sparks so will see if he can do that.

Big thanks for your help.

 

[Simon35]

Living down to my moniker:


I believe Simon meant "notifiable".

I did....must be that post-NYE fug...corrected now.

 

[Simon35]

Thanks again Simon. I guess my understanding of Part P and building regs in general was that there were two categories: 1) You had to let the authorities know 2) you could do whatever you liked to your own home and no one needed to be notified no matter if you were totally incompetent and burnt your house down!

I prefer option 2 but we are stuck with "big brother" wanting to know what we get up to it seems. As an aside, what is the certificate needed for? If we sell the house I guess, or maybe insurance claims?

So, to answer your question: I probably could figure out how to test to complete the certificate but don't have test equipment beyond a multimeter! I have a mate who is a sparks so will see if he can do that.

Big thanks for your help.

Just to clarify, you don't have to inform building control but you do have to comply with part P. Have a read of what part P actually says, not an internet summary of it. It's free to download.

Anyway, a Happy New Year to you.

 

[AndyPRK]

what will be located where the old switch is?

You either need a blank plate there (if maintance free conenctions aren't used)
or how about just leaving the switch there as the cooker switch

 

[davelx]

what will be located where the old switch is?

You either need a blank plate there (if maintance free conenctions aren't used)
or how about just leaving the switch there as the cooker switch

You may need a blanking plate, or to leave the switch, to preserve safe zones, even if you do use MF connectors. Also you must consider safe zones when running the new cables.

 

[ericmark]

I would use a cooker connection unit to connect new to old cables, then you have a device showing route of cable, and a junction box which can take the current and size of cooker cables.

As to Part P, in England the kitchen is no longer a special location, it still is in Wales, so you don't have to notify, but I would.

However I had work done in this house by the county council for my late mothers disability, the county council did not supply paperwork, so clearly it is not checked.

 

[reg091]

I could leave the switch but it will be behind a fridge, which I doubt is acceptable.

It was reading a bit about Safe Zones that made me think that I had to cover the cable run in the plaster with metal capping. I need to read more.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

If a cable needs mechanical protection because it is not in a Zone then steel capping is not adequate for that. Capping is just to hold cables in place so that they can be more easily plastered over, and (some say) to protect them during plastering from being damaged by the plasterer, but given how protective they are of the edges of their trowels etc I can't see them hacking at cables.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Have a read of what part P actually says, not an internet summary of it.

 

[flameport]

My first answer to how to test it was switch the oven on!

If you did that and the result was a massive bang and no power to your house, what would you do then?

Or nothing appeared to happen but when you pulled on the oven door handle you got a fatal electric shock?