negative 110volts??

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My fridge freezer aint working ( BEKO ca454111ffs)( A-class frost free)

The light switch/cooling controls iin fridge has got me baffled.
the bulb is not faulty.
When i switch on dial the fan in freezer fan kicks in but light in fridge dont come on ( dial is standard 0,,1-5 )
I checked wires going to bulb ( voltage tester) and the negative reads 110 volts and the positive reads full charge. How can the neg go to 110v..

Could this be a fault in light fitment/controls, which is causing the dilema and thus making the freezer/cooler/conderser malfunction.
I have checked the power input to fitment unit (correct). It`s only when unit is switched on the voltage changes on negative.

this has got me stumped.

any help appreciated.

jack :eek:
 
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Where are you putting the other probe of the tester when getting the readings on the neutral (not negative !!)
 
It's probably just a bad connection to that side of the lamp, and you're using a high-impedance meter which will show some value between zero and supply voltage depending upon the capacitance in the wiring.
 
AC voltmeters don't display 'negative' anything, so how are you getting this 'negative' result?
 
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thanks gents, so far.

I have a small voltage tester driver ( put thumb on end and point on wire and it gives a reading.

the positive on lamp reads 240 v
The other wire (negative ) neutral reads 110v.

this only happens when I turn on dial at unit.

When off the positive reads nil, and other wire 55V
when on the positive reads 240 and other wire reads 110v.

the bulb fails to come on...

If it is a cross/wire/short/defect i cant find it, and i`ve looked to see any lose wires etc,,,, or perhaps its something else.

jack
 
I have a small voltage tester driver ( put thumb on end and point on wire and it gives a reading.
There's the problem.
Voltage is measured between two points, using a test instrument with two probes.

Using your body as a reference point is not only meaningless, but dangerous as well. Throw the useless tester away and buy a multimeter (less than £10 at most DIY stores).
 
You're working with AC. Positive and negative are not applicable. Your 'tester' is a toy and is dangerous.

You almost certainly have a broken neutral. I would not advise you attempt to repair it yourself.
 
Once again you electricians right..
That "tester' has been ditched and i got a multimeter.
the readings on tester bear no resemblence to what is going on, a waste of time other than to tell when current is present.
The meter gave me accurate readings, and it transpired that a wire was loose further down at condenser level in fridge.
reconnected the wire tight and problem solved.,
my mother was well pleased. ..she thinks I am a hero.

thanks
 

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