Nest 3rd gen to replace British Gas WR1

Joined
24 Nov 2018
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Country
United Kingdom
Hello,


I’m looking for some help with a 3rd gen nest install. I have done quite a bit of research, but I’m yet to find the answer. I don’t profess to know to allot about these but I’m sure someone can help me pretty quickly and maybe help others in the future by doing so.

upload_2018-11-24_18-54-52.png


From what I’ve read and researched I believe the config should be as follows, although I’ve not seen anyone who has had two power leads connected and I believe I should just connect both the wires?

Both Blue cables to N in nest

Both Brown cable to L in nest

The Black cable in 1 is “HW satisfied” nest 4

I’ve no idea where to put the brown cable in 4

I’ve no idea what to do with the earth cables yellow and green


Any help is really appreciated.

Thanks
 
Sponsored Links
Sorry, but your enquiry is confused and makes no sense.

You give no information about your heating system but post a picture of a back plate from something, but don't say what it is from. Is it a programmer? or a thermostat (the back plates are the same)

It looks to me like a thermostat from where the wires are connected, but then you mention HW (hot water) hot water wires do not go to a thermostat they go to a programmer.

So:

1) Please describe what you have posted a photo of. (ie Programmer or thermostat and its make and model)
2) What sort of heating system do you have? (combi boiler / or system with a hot water cylinder)
 
Hello,

Thanks for the reply. Sorry, I didn't mean to be confusing. The first photo I attached in the post is of the backplate for the WR1 wireless system. The below is of the WR1 unit with the device connected to it.

tb6PdBiugdaOQDEBxMoj1gc17-8fXYj7yX9-R1OOKORxz9Srs-iJd866W9SNja0Xx90fqlntPB3z-vIjdq1e9zlylxe-BGzKDh_NlCOriByWYAzOAHvh4Cda3C0pT2kIOQEOQD33knyMkkJhzXeqtqCUSfv7CWgUy-AgGkEAWX9314-fxZiIhLbA33EnF8KwLEZyZjp_By5G8ad8KOd_x7IE_qDkx_GAgcaHSZ8jVHjSo1WyRp_rbTko8kX9z-w6qVd2RnWGTcYjm_PrYcODXxD5cq5ZPJxt-6QxZwDLeYAeG-YPXlmVLUYfq0NCv2-XJPc2vLC_kLvB0HgmMyoHZAxtuq46uBk6o0vS4BCnOL2cnqLBblbsysLPRnRihWegC3GcBDM4ZRMB3do-xrf_XjEu7E-ctDFNFIL2JZ3bro5Tzv5VKQnJc5a2WnQYL0sIUwzV-hnEqt2L47PN4yCvgg0XQxluklyAJc_IcwoWdtRL93l5A1sYkyyUmOGlCGlt-Bgx8ITiuPuRNd6DgPukyBtyjfg75Z-AJf8hyBjeoGCr8uRyHwhUlq_vh3oxNB7WFYU_QcVHFMGZO5bNp9yN3FJZPow1eEPIaD3UPATHIx7YH1W2G1rYNAFscxuWobaKUus0Qb0rQUbagbar8P5hLoa4=w681-h908-no


This connects wirelessly to this unit

c4kCqVd0VMm7DoM7lcLFRuXlOte5shy4KXbpfTFkrFGRgjmVcFK3TBgrCl8jprr-4WkLsVg_ftpmf4yTv-fDrih1NEFgh-shcJGEEamk7Qy4pqtU1JIY05VByUHsC2CNeEHhQT3Hd1Ns1N7s6M81M_YeLd7kpbjhbwmlctxjU5Rt7-N_L_icUDA6qM-7SHIfSfX8r6az8wCB-wErXNRzp9SySTxCmHiVByuSlgtHmyTAbJp47O7WktXaoeSlnkLpg0vfwMVGAEkoaMXKTIJNvpjR9_kxS5aY9v9TIIAkhcAxuKG7ij2BQ6BLTpMyu1IkkNRcPtbgHgqKLkXdZLTym5xQguHQkCSPIgirPlv89m1JdbJu2MftoiokNMlDqZXUxiAfLg_x9Nv7Ws7nh3UiMKEIl-7kmR6sQH4aPs1pp5t_ogPVHfXUqHQ2vzblYqu8uwnRNHBvrqcF9R_1VH3iBOUw3NPj-MWMYuJBbr2cdHlFl-TyhxclNcn-fy_pOoAL55ZXlkWB2B95KqkGV1CR7rh5EVpzotH-gHl5mTZ3Y9zseh3k6-As9GeNDzdC4jTb6aGsX8dI8cg15hE2134yuNjFXpActtnvVU0Hiz2hw9SW01OlxKBr_YR0qV9dX6fOx0J6YWuLiPUyxLo5fpPxbBuN=w1211-h908-no



The heating system is a combi boiler a Worcester bosch 532/i


Thanks
 
Unfortunately I can't see your later pictures, but if you have a combi, you should have the Single Channel version of the Hive, which doesn't have any HW (hot water ) control.

Hive SC.png

The BG WR1 receiver is actually a rebadged Drayton SCR, they are wired as below, you shouldn't have a wire in terminal 2.

SCR.JPG


As you don't have stored hot water control to take into account, your installation is really simple.

As you have figured the wires in N & L are straight forward they will move to the Hive N & L respectively

The wire in terminal (1) will move to the Hive terminal (1) Common.

The wire in terminal (3) will move to the Hive terminal (3) heating call for heat.

As you still haven't mentioned what is controlling the existing receiver, I don't know if time control is included at the existing thermostat or not. However, if there is any other existing time control, such as a time switch fitted on the boiler, that will need to be set to be on permanently 24/7.
 
Sponsored Links
Hello,

Thanks for the reply. The information about the Drayton is really useful. Its a nest not a Hive that I'm am installing. I just need to figure out which terminals are common and call for heat on the nest 3rd gen.
 
Ah sorry, too many Nest and Hive threads flying around at the moment.

N and L are self explanatory

Terminal 2 is the Heat link heating common and terminal 3 is the Heating call for heat.

You may see other threads making reference to a link between L and 2. If you have 4 terminals with wires in at the existing receiver, you don't need to do that.

hl.jpg
 
Hello,

Thanks for your help. I've done the install today and it all seems fine so far. I didn't do the link between L and 2 as I had the four connections in total including the power (5 if you count the earth).
 
Hi James, just got my Nest and the back plate for the existing programmer is exactly the same as yours. Can I please ask 2 things: 1. I'd assume you put the earth on the earth connection as per the photo above? 2. did you have the British Gas Wireless system in your connection?
 
yes the earths just go into the earth terminal on the nest, but unless you are powering the nest thermostat using T1 & T2, you can just join the earth wires in a terminal strip and isolate
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top