Nest installation

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Stem, thanks for the help wired Heatlink into wiring centre new stat on wall, all looking good . I believe my boiler can do opentherm and that the Heatlink supports this, do you think it’s worth while or just leave it as is?

Ta
 
If it were me, I would use the Open therm. As it stands, the Nest will simply switch the heating on and off, and the boiler thermostat will control the temperature of the radiators. If you use Open therm the Nest will take over the boiler control too and adjust the water temperature for maximum efficiency.
 
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Desperate Dan :cry: its seems that the people who are employed to wire in these fairly simple wiring jobs have a vested interest in keeping trade secrets . I have a Valliant ecoFITpure and the 5 wires that go to the connection block X12 have live, neutral and 2 x earth the one of these Rt is connected to, in my case, grey which connected to terminal 3 on Receiver the diagram shows common as disappearing into infinity on terminal 1 when this should be connected to the live next to it because if this is not done the receiver relay switch in between 1 and 3 has no power to send to the RT terminal also so that the boiler heating does not run heating permanently one has to remove the RT link in the 24 volt side block X106 .
I know one can also use this block (X106) to only use with the single channel receiver as the link that make the boiler run permanently is a shunt of it you like a short CCT. Logic dictates that one could use the wiring configuration shown in the single channel receiver as it acts as a short on demand thus the 24 volt RT will work.

But as an amateur of 84 years old who cannot afford to keep you in the style you have got used to, with out me going short or needing a second mortgage, I have to use my brain and past experience and I have found that a technically competent Amateur can outshine by a long way some cowboys out there. Building regulations are a farce re Grenfell tower our finest no doubt did the work.

Many years ago an alleged Corgi engineer, then, but a conventional boiler, non balance into a garage. It was condemned by the then gas board.

I installed a a balanced flued boiler and an antiquated wiring cct which had no diagram by testing every lead, and relay and got it to work which past inspection, when I told the customer to report the smell of gas and it was safe one wonders if the Corgi person had any insurance, I had 2 million when most only had ! million, hence I could work on contracts for the council and worked in a lot of schools and found a lot of cowboy work which i made a fair amount of money putting right. I find a smugness of superiority in some of the forums in the UK but when look at the American DIYers they out shine a lot of pro's over here sad to say. I'm all for certification if it really meant something and penalised shoddy workmanship .I know it is irksome dealing with amateurs and incompetent diyers as I found when working. A professionally installed kitchen with no earth on socket in the kitchen they had not done a final continuity reversal test with one of those testing plugs cheep as chips and does the job. but having said all this there are a lot of very competent and helpful pro's out there who should be proud of themselves to hell in a cart for the cowboys. Take care out there. Mike
 
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Desperate Dan :cry: its seems that the people who are employed to wire in these fairly simple wiring jobs have a vested interest in keeping trade secrets . I have a Valliant ecoFITpure and the 5 wires that go to the connection block X12 have live, neutral and 2 x earth the one of these Rt is connected
“a smugness of superiority”? Given the electrical works being “a simple task” then I fail to see how you managed to use block X12 instead of X1? Smugness? Never :censored:
Considering you are familiar with the use of relays then does it really matter if 24 volt RT (X106) or 240 volt RT (X1) is utilised when using the single or twin channel receiver?
 

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