Discussion in 'Windows and Doors' started by mylittlehouse, 4 Mar 2012.
Any idea how much a upvc stable door installed should cost me?
a lot more than a better and more secure wooden one.
Really so a wooden one would be more secure?
All of the windows are upvc so was thinking of making them match but I am open to the wooden kind if this is a better solution.
yes. the point is that plastic doors and windows are so weak and flexible that they have to be festooned with extra hooks and bolts in an attempt to compensate. You might also be surprised that plastic doors have a lot more maintenance problems with hinges/bolts/handles/locking mechanism. Wooden doors seldom go wrong, and need no special skills, tools or parts to maintain.
If the door is exposed to the weather, it is best painted. If it has the protection of at least an open porch you can stain it if you prefer.
Unless the doorframe is in good solid condition, it's worth changing at the same time. Doorframes are quite cheap.
Get an experienced local joiner to fit it, he will do a better and quicker job than a DIYer or handyman.
Fit a British-standard burglar-resistant lock to each half. Some people like to put a BS nightlatch on the top half, and a BS mortice on the bottom half, with a bolt to hold them together. If the door is part-glazed it is preferable to choose one with quite solid stiles rather than thin glazing bars.
I'm liking your thinking to be honest as my kitchen will be oak and I could have oak inside and paint the external part white so it protects and does not stand out against everything else.
The door will move to the archway outside the back door, does the door need to notify building control? I understand a window installer would inform BC but what about a joiner?
sorry I don't know. I have an idea that a door with more glass than the old one needs approval.
It can be quite nice to have a door slightly inset so you don't get wet while finding your keys, and can leave parcels or garden tools under cover.
So thats a BS deadlock in the bottom half, a BS night latch in the top, a bolt to join both doors together and a tower bolt at the very bottom and very top............so thats 5 locks...................exactly the same as a 5 point multi-point locking mechanism on a pvc door
A Final Exit Door made of wood does not require to be festooned with additional bolts and hooks, like a plastic one does.
Well in 15yrs + of boarding up, glazing and locksmithing for the 2 largest in the UK at that game i saw plenty of timber doors kicked in, i've hung more timber doors than i care to remember and spliced many many more frames.
Put in all the BS locks you want, they'll hold out in an attack for sure, shame the same can't be said for the door or frame with the latter just splintering like a twisted bamboo stick and the keep just falling to the floor
Put a BS Dead lock on each leaf, and a good metal strip down the frame on each side. Also use hinge bolts.
Job done and a lot stronger than the above poster says.
somebody one kicked my back door, it didn't give way, but the alarm went off.
It's quite a strong one...
So just to recap, thats 2 BS locks, 3 tower bolts, a London bar, a Birmingham bar and lets say 4 hinge bolts.
The things you need to secure a timber door, jeez!
No its a personal choice actually.
Any door can be attacked,so you add the protection you find adequate. Or your insures insist on.
Where did I say tower bolts, if your going to be a wit at least get the quote correct.
Fancy a door I will guarantee no one will kick in?
Looks like wood, looks like what you want it to look like.
Costs a fortune though.
Such is life.
Tower bolts have been in the equation since JohnD mentioned one, i've fitted enough stable doors to know you also need tower bolts top and bottom so in total thats 3
And whats a 'wit'
I've also secured enough stable doors to know they are one of the most vunerable timber doors available.
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