New bathroom move tank shower pump??? help? lol

[fabgav]

Hi all, i've posted a few message on here so some of you may know what i on with at the moment.
I'm moving the bathroom from downstairs to up, i have brought a nice new thermo mixer shower.
The cold water tank sits on the joist in the loft and will be at best! 2feet above shower head.
However the shower head will be 6mtrs away from the hot water cylinder
(sorry to mix between feet and mtr's lol)
Anyway, i was going to get a pump and go 'up and over' with the pipes but have since been advised i would need a neg head pump for this bue to the level of the tank.
So my next thought it, raise the tank?
If i do this there is a nice chimeny breast i can stick it in in the loft and will put if out the way and can raise it by about 5/6 foot.
How much of an effect will this have on my H/W pressure and flow?
Bearing in mind the new bathroom is plumped with 15mm (d'oh)
So i thought, if i raise tank and then plump 22mm of possible even 28(32) not sure what next size is) to the shower alone and then reduce it to the 15mm connections on the shower, would this be better?
Sorry this is getting long.
To summerise..
1. Raise Tank
2. Re-plump with 22mm or great pipe to the shower
3. If that fails fit a pos' head pump
4. After doing all this, would i just be better off fitting a combi?

The only this with the combi is, i have a back boiler so I'm currently not losing any space for the boiler but stick a combi on the wall and i will.

So, if anyone has any ideas thoughts or constructive criticism (lol) I'd be very happy to hear.
And please dont anyone go on about building regs/gas safe etc etc i already know, ta [/list]

 

[Nige F]

Never mind Build. Regs - eh John Send us a diagram

 

[fabgav]

hmmmm diagram of what exactly?
it would take all my skills to mock everything up on paint lol plus i'm at work lol
Give me a few hours i'll see if i can do it, ta

 

[TicklyT]

The position of the hot cylinder has no effect at all on the hot water static pressure. That is controlled by the position of the cold water storage tank that feeds the hot cylinder.

Undersized pipework to and from the hot cylinder will restrict the water flow rate and resudual pressure at point of use.

Pumping the water through undersized pipework may cause problems including airlocking, and taken to extremes, may even cause the hot cylinder to collapse.

Oversized hot water pipework contributes to inefficiencies in the system, taking longer to deliver hot water to the point of use.

Generally, 22mm pipework is adequate for gravity hot & cold feeds.

Raising the cold storage in the loft as high as possible may give adequate pressure and flow for a low pressure shower mixer (say 0.1 or 0.2 Bar minimum pressure) to work without a pump. Options include a coffin shaped tank raised as high as possible on a platform built in the loft.

A combi boiler may be more efficient than your back boiler, but presents it's own usage restrictions - many can only supply enough hot water for one outlet at a time. Only you know your usage pattern.

Changing to a combi boiler will almost inevitably mean upgrading your gas pipework to supply it's much higher gas demand for instantaneous water heating.

A combi boiler will not work as efficiently as your back boiler, if it works at all, if either the gas or water supplies don't meet the specified requirements

Some combis get installed in lofts to save space, but this presents a variety of problems (access, lighting, safe working for ithe installer & maintenance etc. etc.)

Other options may include an unvented hot water cylinder. These have their own installation rerquirements, and need regular maintenance inspections by suitably qualified engineers to ensure their contued safety.

 

[fabgav]

Nice lot on info there Tickly, i must admit i'm not that keen on the combi approch so i think i'll strick that one off the list.

Right, this is a shocking pic but hey lol
Dark blue is current tank, light blue is proposed new one.
Orange is proposed pump.
If raise the tank and will test with pipe work in red to see if i have enough power/flow/pressure without the pump, if not, then i will fit the pump as shown.
That all making sense?
I'm just trying to not waste lots of money on pipes really i.e. if i raise than then run 22mm hot and cold for shower only to find i still need a pump i think will be a waste of money and materials? or would i then just run the pump on the 22mm?

 

[Rico99]

Hi there,

Looks ok so far, but I assume you will also be pumping the cold supply to the shower as well.

And don't forget, you will also need to raise your F&E tank for the central heating and may have to re-jig the pipework in the airing cupboard for it as well.

Rico