New build hot water issue

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Hi All,
Recently moved into a new build over the weekend but having issues with the hot water. Posting here in case it’s a stupid error before getting the builder out. I have a unvented hot water cylinder but it doesn’t appear to work unless I also switch on the immersion heater which I’m told costs a fortune to run. The program timer has been set fine but even after a few hours it’s only like warm. There is a thermostat on the tank and I can hear it click off around 30 but never gets above that - it’s set at 65. Iv attempted to reset the thermostat but it’s not had any impact .

Thanks
 
You need a G3 qualified plumber, not a builder.
When you say cyl stat clicks at 30° do you mean when you rotate it manually?
That would be normal as it will click when you go below and above the temperature it is currently at!

Do you have a gas heat source (boiler)
Is it a heat only or a system boiler?

Try your central heating at the same time as your DHW.
 
I also switch on the immersion heater which I’m told costs a fortune to run.
Not as bad as I thought, the problem is, any other method needs to heat up pipes between boiler and cylinder, and with many boilers also the boiler needs heating.

As my solar panel software shows me what I am using. So I see this 1783931335482.pngas the sun comes out, first my solar panels charge my battery, but before it starts to export, it heats my cylinder, shown morning warm up. Once hot it switches off, and then while exporting we will see top up spikes where the thermostat cuts in. These are quite short, which since the immersion heater is in the cylinder, there are no losses, but if there was pipe work to heat up, as the thermostat cuts in, as well as the heat required, you're also heating a boiler and pipes.

So my immersion heater has a unit so only used excess solar, which also means it tells me how much it has used. Last 28 days1.jpg So even at 25p/kWh still only £8.66 at 12p/kWh loss of payment for me £4.16 a month.

My boiler uses C Plan and I have no cylinder thermostat for the boiler, only control I have is run time, and with experiments I have found 30 minutes a day is enough, this means I only heat the boiler and pipes once a day, and in real terms it stops after 20 minutes due to return water temperature, so the boiler is rated at 20 kW, it is simple on/off, so 28 x 20 x 20 / 60 = 187 kWh so using over 5 times as much energy, but the energy is around 1/5th of the cost so for me heating with oil or electric even if paying full price for electric, it works out at around the same.

However, if using a thermostat on the tank, then the boiler will likely fire up 8 times a day, so losses are higher.

My problem was, with no thermostat, how can I be sure it has got hot enough to stop legionnaires? The same applies if you use a time slot to heat the water, far better to use a thermostat to stop legionnaires, so even if using oil was slightly cheaper, for the amount saved, far better to use electric immersion heater in the summer.

Winter however is a different story, any heat in the pipes goes into the house, so not waisted energy, so using gas or oil in winter is better. This of course is reverse to summer, where hot pipes can mean the AC runs longer.

As to heat pump, I don't know. Heat pumps do not run as efficient when heating to 65°C, so there are losses in pipe work, and in the unit its self, so it is still likely cheaper to use an immersion heater, as although the heat pump is 3 times more efficient it also has losses when running for such a short time. But I have no way to measure the losses.
 
If you have done what you can and it's still nor working then whoever is in place to cover the guarantee/warranty on your new build will be the ones to call. They should be getting a qualified bod - G3 qualified for unvented as suggested - out to look at it for you.
 
You need a G3 qualified plumber, not a builder.
When you say cyl stat clicks at 30° do you mean when you rotate it manually?
That would be normal as it will click when you go below and above the temperature it is currently at!

Do you have a gas heat source (boiler)
Is it a heat only or a system boiler?

Try your central heating at the same time as your DHW.
Hi,
Yeah I’m aware it clicks off when it reaches the water temp when manually moved but was pointing out that it doesn’t seem to get above this level even though it should go
Up to 65. The motor can be heard running , iv asked the site manager to come over.
thanks
 
Hi,
Yeah I’m aware it clicks off when it reaches the water temp when manually moved but was pointing out that it doesn’t seem to get above this level even though it should go
Up to 65. The motor can be heard running , iv asked the site manager to come over.
thanks

Sounds like a defect with the 2 port... Or wired up wrong.
 

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