New isolator switch install - new one different to old!

[cphillips]

All,

I have purchased a new shiny isolator switch for our ensuite - it powers the electric shower and fan.

The old is a different layout to the new.

NEW FRONT:

NEW REAR: (Between the L2's it says "1 way use L1")

OLD REAR:

The old one has L1 (one red wire), L2 (two red wires), N1 (1 black wire), N2 (2 black wires) and earth.

Any advice? Thanks in advance!

Colin

 

[EFLImpudence]

Your new switch has three switches - L1, L2 & N. - your old one only has two - L & N
Three are needed if the fan has a timer.

There's no reason why it should say 1WAY USE L1. It is just three separate switches operated at the same time by one rocker.
Use L1 or L2 for the reds and N for the blacks.

I presume it is a power shower, not an electrically heated instant shower.

 

[cphillips]

Your new switch has three switches - L1, L2 & N. - your old one only has two - L & N
Three are needed if the fan has a timer.

There's no reason why it should say 1WAY USE L1. It is just three separate switches operated at the same time by one rocker.
Use L1 or L2 for the reds and N for the blacks.

I presume it is a power shower, not an electrically heated instant shower.

Thanks for the speedy reply!

The fan doesn't have a timer, goes off when you pull the cord. The shower is an Aqualisa Quartz Electric 10.5 shower.

So I assume you mean put 1 red wire in one of the L1 and 2 red wires in the other L1? Same for N - 1 black wire in one of them and 2 black wires in the other N?

 

[SUNRAY]

EFL is correct.

What has happened is the manufacturers have used the same moulding for a 3gang 2way switch and for this switch to save money. It's a bit naughty but...

 

[ericmark]

The isolator you had and have is not suitable for a 10.5 kW shower, and it seems likely neither is the wiring.

 

[OwainDIYer]

The shower is an Aqualisa Quartz Electric 10.5 shower.

The switch you have is only rated at 10 amps. It is not suitable for a 10.5kW shower. DO NOT USE IT.

You need a 45 amp switch.

 

[SUNRAY]

Thanks for the speedy reply!

The fan doesn't have a timer, goes off when you pull the cord. The shower is an Aqualisa Quartz Electric 10.5 shower.

So I assume you mean put 1 red wire in one of the L1 and 2 red wires in the other L1? Same for N - 1 black wire in one of them and 2 black wires in the other N?

Alarm bells ringing, that is a 10.5KW shower unit and must not be connected to that switch.

And the wiring in that picture is not thick enough. the old switch is rated at 32A which is presumably why it has failed.

It could potentially become part of this thread:
https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/electrical-fault-definition.540177/page-4#post-4568292

 

[SUNRAY]

I hope he reads these before replacing the switch.

 

[terryplumb]

Can't see how that old switch has been wired to a 10.5 KW shower. Probably just the light and fan.
As others have said above ,if it is wired to the shower stop using it ,and do not fit the new one either.

 

[cphillips]

Alarm bells ringing, that is a 10.5KW shower unit and must not be connected to that switch.

And the wiring in that picture is not thick enough. the old switch is rated at 32A which is presumably why it has failed.

It could potentially become part of this thread:
https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/electrical-fault-definition.540177/page-4#post-4568292

Sorry, where have I said it has failed? It hasn't - I am just updating the switch to a modern day one after decorating. The shower is fed back to the Consumer Unit on it's own circuit.

There is a pull cord for the shower and another pull cord for the fan.

 

[terryplumb]

And when the isolator that you are changing is switched off ,your electric shower still works ,does it not ? If so ,as
I said above ,the shower isn't wired through that switch.

 

[cphillips]

And when the isolator that you are changing is switched off ,your electric shower still works ,does it not ? If so ,as
I said above ,the shower isn't wired through that switch.

Terry,

Correct - I've just tested and the pull cord light stays on and shower works when the isolator is off.

 

[terryplumb]

Ok. Now that's clarified ,you can use the new switch and the connections are as you outlined in your post of 8.14 pm.
Regards Terry.

 

[cphillips]

Great, thanks for clarifying Terry.
I shall swap the switches at the weekend and feedback on how it goes.

Thanks also to others over their concerns, my fault for not explaining the setup correctly, apologies for that.

 

[SUNRAY]

Sorry, where have I said it has failed?
There is a pull cord for the shower and another pull cord for the fan.

Ah you haven't, my apologies. But you did write this:

it powers the electric shower and fan.

So I make no apologies for shouting loud. And I thank others for doing the same as it appeared the setup was very wrong.