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new kitchen questions

Discussion in 'Wood / Woodwork / Carpentry' started by jackg, 7 Aug 2019.

  1. jackg

    jackg

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    Location:
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    L shaped kitchen approx 3.5m sq.
    1. Worktop: Solid laminate or chipboard laminate. Solid is hard to cut from what I have read? Is DIY realistic. Butt joints seem to be recommended for solid?
    Toying with cutting a curve at one end of the worktop, again is that realistic with solid laminate?
    If using a solid laminate worktop, do you raise the cabinet legs by the difference in thickness 38mm-12.5mm = 25.5mm?
    2. Sink mixer, the sink is stainless steel Franke. How well can they cope with a large mixer tap without deflection?
    Or is an undermounted sink and the tap mounted on the worktop stronger?

    3. Miele fridge but cannot be have a cabinet door on the fridge door according to Miele. Are there generic brackets to use to achieve this and is the fridge door drilled in so doing?
    Ta
     
  2. foxhole

    foxhole

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  3. jackg

    jackg

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    My thoughts on cabinets have evolved:
    >>Buy MFC units from Howdens or Magnet and fit.
    >>Buy flat pack Birch ply units from one of two sellers on ebay.
    >> Get a local joinery workshop to do the same.
    >>Get a local timber merchant to cut the blanks from sheets of Birch ply and finish them myself. Need to buy door hinge hole cutter and maybe a dovetail jig? Not entirely sure of the dimensions of the units.

    Any thought?
     
  4. Notch7

    Notch7

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    Nice though birch ply is, mfc gives you a proper scratch resistant wipe clean surface.

    Solid surface worktops like earthstone are a bit porous and can stain. Laminate on chipboard is the hardest wearing and is actually the most practical kitchen worktop available. Not suitable for underslung sinks of course.
     
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  5. JobAndKnock

    JobAndKnock

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    Laminate-covered chipboard is probably the cheapest, most versatile option there is.
    If using a solid laminate worktop, do you raise the cabinet legs by the difference in thickn Solid laminate (such as Trespa) can be difficult to cut - needs a jig saw and metal blades to rough-out shapes(to within a few mm of finished size) and a router, guide bush, straight cutter and template to finish to size. Not beyond the whit of anyone with a bit of router experience, however, solid laminate can generate a lot of dust (so a good P3 dust mask and dust extraction are highly advisable) and it takes a bigger router (1/2in and minimum 1400watts I'd say). AFAIK butt joints are the only way to joint solid
     
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