New mot rules

There is NO change to the MOT emissions requirements for a pre-DPF diesel (which the OP's will be) as far as I'm aware? It'll just do its usual smoke meter test.

Motman is the one to comment but I'm sure the tester that did my car.on Monday said they were clamping down on all Diesels emissions wise?, could have miss heard what he said though.
 
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There is NO change to the MOT emissions requirements for a pre-DPF diesel (which the OP's will be) as far as I'm aware? It'll just do its usual smoke meter test.

As said, this is correct.
 
@Avocet
my last years MOT had readings on the result page...it passed ok...this years sheet didnt have any figures just PASS..which is fine.
if it failed...would fitting a dpf be a solution??
cheers
geof

In practical terms, fitting a DPF will be impossible. Putting the "can" in the exhaust is easy enough (although you'll have to get it close enough to the manifold to get it hot enough) but it's all the peripheral stuff you need to get it to "regenerate" periodically that would be impossible. Typically (depending on how the car is driven) they'll fill up with soot and have to "regenerate" every 500-1000 miles. There are tubes before and after the DPF "brick" via which the back-pressure is measured. When the pressure difference between them gets excessive, the car goes into "regeneration mode" and does everything it can, to get the exhaust absolutely stinking hot for a while to burn the soot off. It will mess about with injection pressure and timing (and valve timing if it has variable valve timing), boost pressure, EGR valve control - all sorts of stuff. Some PSA models also use an additional chemical to help with the process. Given the well-publicised problems with blocked DPFs in the news, it's fair to say that the OEMs struggle with this area of technology, so as a DIY proposition, I think the advice would be "don't go there"!

Also, depending on WHAT it fails on, a DPF might not help anyway. They ONLY deal with smoke (soot). If it failed on (say) CO or HC, a DPF wouldn't do anything anyway.
 
A diesel won’t fail on CO or HC but as above, retrofitting a DPF would be an expensive nightmare.
 
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In practical terms, fitting a DPF will be impossible. Putting the "can" in the exhaust is easy enough (although you'll have to get it close enough to the manifold to get it hot enough) but it's all the peripheral stuff you need to get it to "regenerate" periodically that would be impossible. Typically (depending on how the car is driven) they'll fill up with soot and have to "regenerate" every 500-1000 miles. There are tubes before and after the DPF "brick" via which the back-pressure is measured. When the pressure difference between them gets excessive, the car goes into "regeneration mode" and does everything it can, to get the exhaust absolutely stinking hot for a while to burn the soot off. It will mess about with injection pressure and timing (and valve timing if it has variable valve timing), boost pressure, EGR valve control - all sorts of stuff. Some PSA models also use an additional chemical to help with the process. Given the well-publicised problems with blocked DPFs in the news, it's fair to say that the OEMs struggle with this area of technology, so as a DIY proposition, I think the advice would be "don't go there"!

Also, depending on WHAT it fails on, a DPF might not help anyway. They ONLY deal with smoke (soot). If it failed on (say) CO or HC, a DPF wouldn't do anything anyway.

A diesel won’t fail on CO or HC but as above, retrofitting a DPF would be an expensive nightmare.

really many thanks for those replies...having a dpf seems more of a nightmare than i had with my 2001 golf 1.6S...re: lamda probe and cat...both had to replaced at 115 and then 135 (10 and 12 years)
to get the readings down...the lamda probe used to come on if i accelerated on a cold engine...later on after a 20 min run and then parked for a few hours...it didnt come on...got me wondering
so
i will continue with the 1.4 Tdi three lunger till it dies...and feed it diesel treatment to clear it out before mot and use a additive with my texico normal diesel currently 1.329 here in the cornish sticks..
shell is a rip off!!!
cheers
geof
 
Lead tetraethyl was added to fuel to increase its octane ratio, which allowed higher compression (power) and to reduce its pre ignition qualities (pinking). It also had the other beneficial results of coating the valve seats - reducing wear.
As this is no longer acceptable, other chemical additives are included which do the same thing, and its those that get deposited on the plug electrodes.
Light deposits indicate the engine is fine, oily deposits mean the same as they always did - bore or valve stem wear.
That's how I understand it - based on no scientific knowledge whatsoever!
John :)
 
Most of the spark plugs that I seem to change nowdays come out whiter than when they went in!
 
Some plugs are in for so long its a wonder they come out at all......camera shutter sphincter time on occasion :eek:
John :)
 
4170146, member: 76504"]Some plugs are in for so long its a wonder they come out at all......camera shutter sphincter time on occasion :eek:
John :)[/QUOTE]

Took this one out of a Focus my son bought. Luckily, the thread came out with an easy-out.


61826563-304D-4272-88C1-45C77BDAE499.jpeg
[QUOTE="Burnerman, post:
 
Lady Luck was with you there mate.....I've had a couple, both came out with a splined extractor made by Sykes Pickavant. Absolute bloody nightmare :eek:
John :)
 
Looks like that plug has been sitting in water . Why's part of the thread shiny clean and the end bit oily? Almost looks like a plug that's too long for the head.
 
Being a MK2 Focus, it probably had sat in water for some time (o/s washer jet leaks into spark plug recess). Don’t know why the bottom of thread is like that - definately not too long but a lot of them are like that.
 
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