New Socket in Lounge

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I am redecorating my lounge which will entail the ceiling being newly boarded (on top of existing, not replacement), and a new plaster skim on the walls.

I have a socket in the lounge, cable coming down the wall. I want to move it about 16" to the right. The room above is a bedroom, but there are wardrobes in that area so I cannot get to the cable from above. I have two questions about this.

Firstly, the cable will not extend that far. I will need to join it. I am presuming I can just use a regular junction box that will be above the new ceiling plasterboard?

Secondly, the joists run in the wrong direction for me, there are two between the existing cable and where I want it to be. There is already one layer of plaster board, and this will be added to a second layer. Can I just channel out the existing plasterboard to the new channel and run the cable along there knowing the new layer of plasterboard will cover it? Do I need to encase it in conduit? Do I need to notch the two joists or even drill holes in them to channel the cable?

TIA.
 
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Firstly, the cable will not extend that far. I will need to join it. I am presuming I can just use a regular junction box that will be above the new ceiling plasterboard?
I'm confused - if you can get to it above the ceiling to install a JB, why can't you get to it to re-route it?

Anyway - no, you may not install a regular JB there, as it will not be accessible. You need to use a maintenance free one, such as the Ashley J803.


Secondly, the joists run in the wrong direction for me, there are two between the existing cable and where I want it to be. There is already one layer of plaster board, and this will be added to a second layer. Can I just channel out the existing plasterboard to the new channel and run the cable along there knowing the new layer of plasterboard will cover it?
Why not run it along the wall, within 150mm of the ceiling until it's over the new socket position, then drop down?


Do I need to notch the two joists
Never notch the underside of joists.
 
I'm confused - if you can get to it above the ceiling to install a JB, why can't you get to it to re-route it?

I can get to it because there was coving which when removed exposed the cable where it came from the first-floor underfloor into the wall channel. And I can cut out sections of existing ceiling board as it will be covered. But I still need to get it over to the new location.

Anyway - no, you may not install a regular JB there, as it will not be accessible. You need to use a maintenance free one, such as the Ashley J803.

So what happens if there had been a junction box before the wardrobes had been built. would that need to be replaced? anyway, that is a moot point I guess.


Why not run it along the wall, within 150mm of the ceiling until it's over the new socket position, then drop down?

So are you saying that channelling it along the existing ceiling baord before the new is added is a bad idea/against regulations?

And do you mean come vertically down say 100mm of the ceiling in the existing channel, then horizontally across to the new channel, and then vertically down to the new socket? Can I do that, and what about conduit, isn't there a danger that however well the conduit is jointed it will expose some cable?


Never notch the underside of joists.

No, I thought that sounded like a bad idea.
 
If the ceiling is being re-boarded, you can remove very large sections of the old ceiling, and drill holes through the joists. And run the cables through the joists.

Avoid junction boxes if you can, as it sounds like you may be able to replace cables rather than join them.

However, if it is not possible, use the Ashley/Hager 30/32 amp maintenance free junction boxes Ban was referring to.
 
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Thanks all. I have ordered some Ashley Hager 32amp maintenance free junction boxes, and I will remove some board and drill through the joists.
 
Ideally you need to drill through the middle of the joist - that is to say not the top or the bottom.
 
Thanks, I understand that, as far away from potential nails/screws to or bottom :). Of course it depends on getting my drill in the gap, so I imagine it will be angled.
 
Thanks, I understand that, as far away from potential nails/screws to or bottom :).
It's not only a question of keeping the cable away from screws/nails (although that's obviously important!) - the centre of the joist is the place where holes result in the minimum structural weakening of the joist.

Kind Regards, John
 
Thanks, I understand that, as far away from potential nails/screws to or bottom :). Of course it depends on getting my drill in the gap, so I imagine it will be angled.

My local Lidl has a right angle drill adapter for less than a fiver. Been there a couple of weeks so elsewhere may be out of stock. Get one if you can, in B & Q they are around £30. Either way you need one to drill joists close together.
 
My local Lidl has a right angle drill adapter for less than a fiver. Been there a couple of weeks so elsewhere may be out of stock. Get one if you can, in B & Q they are around £30. Either way you need one to drill joists close together.
I don't know if I've just been unlucky, but my experience is that the cheap ones (like the one linked to by Detlef) tend to fall apart after drilling just a few holes (some have poor plastic gears). In contrast, I have an expensive one which has been going for years.

Kind Regards, John
 
Some truth in that. I have about three cheap ones (no longer available) and they mostly keep going. I don't have the one I linked. At least one of the ones I have needs nursing sometimes.

In theory paying the proper amount gets quality, but it doesn't always work out that way.

The important thing is to have at least one of these. I also seem to find that extension rods for the flat wood drill bits seem to come in very useful too, so you can get through the next joist.
 

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